Have a 2002 Dakota with 4.7L I had a spark plug break off while removing them for maintenance (Just bought the truck, I promise I will use anti-seize . The bottom thread collar separated from the rest of the plug and remains in the head.





Did a lot of searching and the top tips involved an easy out and PB blaster. So i Picked up a set of these





Set the easy out in the remnants of the plug and sprayed with PB blaster and let sit for couple hours (pic below)





I have been working for the last two hours to try and get it out. Using a two foot cheater bar I get no movement. Also I have used my 1/2" impact wrench for minutes on end with no movement. Im afraid if I put too much torque on it I will break the easy out and be in an even worse position.

So I have been researching ways to help out my predicament and am posting because I need help and suggestions.

1) Acetone and ATF mix - Some forums call this the holy grail of penetrating oils. Though I am having a hard time soaking anything because the liquid just leaks down into the head.

2) Cold - Use upside down canned air or dry ice to cool the whole setup and get movement. never done this, sounds like a gimmick.

3) Heat - Use a torch to heat it up to try and break it free. I have done this with flywheel bolts and a torch before but never a spark plug. I feel nervous doing it near the combustion chamber and dont know if the head and surrounding components could stand up to the heat. Anyone think this is doable with the propane torch i have?





This is what I want to see in the end and avoid pulling the head and I need your help!!!

 

I've found that penetrating oil works the best when left overnight. Obviously you have done this. The one thing to try before the heat would be a penetrating oil I had some luck with. It's called "Freeze-Off" by CRC. It's a super penetrant that seems to work well because the freezing action allows for the penetrant to seep into the stubborn area of the stuck thread. It cracks rusty bolts loose in a hurry. The one thing I've found with this stuff is you have to use about a third of the can to get it frozen but again, had some luck with this stuff.

 

Folks always tell me not to bother with Antiseize as the plug threads are coated. I always use it anyway and this thread reminds me of why.

 

OK my last truck had aluminum heads I never used anything and never had a stuck plug but I do change my plugs every 3 years no mater.

I think its more a rust belt or over tightening problem plus some plugs are made cheaper with thin walls.

 

Im going to try that freeze out stuff I am desperate.

Does anyone have tips or experience using heat on that area. Again im nervous putting an open flame on it but it may not be a big deal I just need someone with some more experience to chime in.

 

Well, I would run the motor to warm and expand the head and cold freeze just the plug to shrink it.

 

Not sure i would run it on 7 holes...alot of harmonics can result

 

One missing out of eight won't be too bad of a misfire. I've run without a plug in before, while troubleshooting an issue. He'll get a misfire code till he gets a good plug in. What is important is that he disconnect the fuel injector plug for that cylinder, so no unburnt fuel reaches the cat.

 

Had that happen to me too. Exact same issue.
Finally got it out with a easyout tool -the hardened curve style,an the ratchet.
Used plenty of pb blaster but seems like the brake cleaner really helped.
Clean out cylinder hole good after u get it out also.
Seems like a common problem with dakotas.

 

That hardened fluted type have been around for years and is always what I have used as well and never had an issue where they didn't work. I notice a lot of new stuff on the market today but I never used any of it so I can't speak for how well or not they work. Wish you well and hope you are armed with enough info, let us know how it goes...