My 98 Dakota IS possessed ! I'm convinced of it.

This is a beater/yard truck that only gets driven maybe 1-2,000 miles/year.

I've had this condition a couple times with this truck. The brake pedal goes low and feels like there is air in the lines. The truck still stops, but albeit longer. The pedal will stay low for awhile. The "Brake and ABS" lights will light up on the dash.

After some hard pumping of the pedal, the pedal WILL feel "Normal" and firm. Braking returns to normal as well. The Brake/ABS lights then go OUT.

The hardware is ALL ok and there are NO leaks to be found... anywhere.

In the past 1,000 miles or so, the Master cylinder was replaced.... twice. Brakes bleed both times. While bleeding the last time. The LF brake line blew out. It was corroded/rusted through. The RF line was also in bad shape. So I replaced the brake lines to both front calipers from that junction box (on the DS frame) to the caliper hoses. I bled the system out once again.

The pedal/brakes felt great for about 20 miles and then the pedal went low.... again. After about driving it around for another 20 miles or so and doing some HARD pumping of the pedal (while sitting still) and also doing some hard braking in reverse (to adjust up the rear shoes), the pedal now is firm and the brakes for great.

I remember reading somewhere this "may" having something to do with the ABS.

???

Ideas ?

 

Anybody out here ?

 

Sounds like you still have air in the system. How did you bleed it?

You'll likely need someone with a DRB or scan tool to activate the ABS to bleed the system.

 

agreed. I saw a post somewhere that putting the axle on jack stands, running to 30 MPH, then slamming the brakes will activate the ABS enough to bleed it after several cycles.

 

That seems a little bit like my problem. It did end up being air in the lines. I bet when you replaced the MC and the brake lines, air got in the distribution valve and in the ABS solenoids.

If you have a very expensive scan tool (drbiii or a snap on) you can bleed the abs systems that way. If you have RWAL, then you can jack up the rear end, secure it with some jack stands and do several panic stops. I have a thread on here where I described everything I did. Just remember to chuck the front wheels when you're doing the ABS panic stops.

I had small bubbles pretty much everywhere and a low pedal with long stopping distances. Bleeding everything restored the pedal height and braking strength. You'll need two people and it is a pain in the rear, but it works. Good luck!

 

I did the standard bleed..... RR, LR, RF, LF.... Solid pedal for a few days then.... back down low.

 

I'll have to try this.

 

No expensive tools here. Not willing to put big $$ into this truck either. It's a beater..... 3rd vehicle.

I'm going to try the 30 MPH panic stops on stands. If that doesn't work, I'm deleting the ABS solenoids and being done with it.