So the dealership installed new ball joints on my truck when I bought it and forgot to install grease zerks (bought truck 8 months ago). I posted the full story in the general discussion area.

Dealership Fail Thread

I just got back from the dealership after they were supposed to have fixed the ball joints. All they did was put new grease zerks in and grease up the ball joints... barely... The drivers side has a tear in the boot! The assistant manager said the ball joint is perfectly fine,all the tear will do is force me to keep putting grease in, but an actual tear will cause the ball joint to prematurely fail. He also said ball joints come pre-greased; even aftermarket ones they installed in my truck. So in reality I did not actually drive with dry ball joints, according to him. What he did not think about was the snow, salt, and water that has been pouring into the grease zerk during the MN winter and spring seasons... I mentioned to him they did a five minute fix on my truck, but it was sitting at the dealership for over seven hours and asked for an explanation. He said he had no idea why that was, other than my truck was most likely squeezed into their schedule.

I said I would not accept this as a fix. He said I would have to wait until the manager returns to work tomorrow. So, they still have my truck. My question is, having put around 8000 miles on the truck with empty zerks and one ball joint has a torn boot, is the assistant manager actually correct in his line of thinking? All my years of experience say he is wrong; however, I do admit I can be wrong. So, if there are any suspension/ball joint experts out there that could provide insight as to the actual safety of driving my truck in this condition please chime in.

Also, anyone that has experience in dealing with crappy service at dealerships (I usually do my own work, but they did this repair to begin with). Not sure what my options are to press them to get this fixed. They advertise a 24 month, unlimited mile warranty on repairs...

I attached a photo of the torn boot on the drivers side. Added an arrow pointing towards the folded area of the boot where the tear is... They called this a greased ball joint...

 

I'd be more worried about that LCA being as pitted as it appears to be, more than that torn boot. And yes, they can come pre-lubricated. The factory ones are not servicable and come pre-lubricated. The open zerks would be a little worrysome, but I would doubt that any significant amount of moisture actually got to the working segment. More than anything, the oriface tube is likely packed with surface rust.

 

The aftermarket ball joints I got required grease and said so in the the obstructions. I would find out the brand and ask the manuf if it comes with grease. For the tear, wipe area with brake cleaner and apply black permeates rtv. Let dry overnight before
driving.

 

imo, check the ball joints for wear...if no play or the play is within specifications (if specs are available)...grease it and your good.

the tear...yes, i wouldn't like it...some cheap quality suspension parts...the boots are not sealed...they friction fit...you grease them and excess grease comes out the top of the boot....of course, this would not be acceptable on a greased for life part...but this one is greaseable.

 

The boots are sealed on ball joints. They undergo a degree of pressure as the suspension goes thought its excursions. The unsealed boots you're talking are found on end links. My Moog end links are like that. Pump grease in and wipe when a bunch comes out the rubber skirt. I had a few tears from age in a BJ and I sealed it up with the method I described earlier. If not, I could definitely see shorter life, unless you're greasing often.

 

oem replacement lower ball joints for my 2007 ram 2500...the boot sits in place...you press in the joint place the boot over the joint and install the knuckle.

here is a delco version
http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo....434834&jsn=447

 

Thanks for the replies guys. After reading this I was more comfortable if I had to live with the torn boot. I know moog's have a small hole so the old, dirty grease can seep out, which will help keep the grease new and clean.

After consulting with the Service Manager, the assistant manager called me the next day and told me he was instructed to replace the ball joint with the torn boot and would call me when it was done. It took two days, but got the truck back with a new ball joint.

I was going to pull off the passenger side tire to replace the upper ball joints (with moogs of course), but there is one lug nut stuck on. Tried the usual suspects (penetrating lube, heat) to no avail. Hammered on it for a while with my impact, but assuming my impact is not as powerful as the dealership impacts... I could not even get the thing to tighten at all... so, thinking they powered it on with the impact and got it cross threaded somehow. I tried my breaker bar, but the nut started to get a little mangled, so I didn't put a pipe on my breaker bar for fear of killing the nut. Could have done the driver's side, but figured this truck is just cursed and I shouldn't touch it anymore.

I left a message for the service center to call me back this morning, but they never did. Was going to see how much they would charge to use their impact to power it off... I think I annoyed them to the point I am now black listed. Anyway, thanks for the input guys.

I forgot to add the GM of the place said he is going to call me after a sit down with the service manager as he is concerned with the quality of work that has been done to my truck. Not sure what that means, but I guess I will find out down the road.

 

The pic of your Delco version shows a snap ring, which I believe would seal the boot?

 

nope...the snap ring fits into the groove on the opposite side of the boot