I have a Quest 429 Gauge Set (Now called AC Pro) which to my knowledge is r134a only, and I looked at it 3 times before removing my gauge set. Remember both high and low side read 0psi after my vacuum down. The clutch isn't engaging to draw in refrigerant so if my limited research is correct the high side is supposed to pressurize as the system is charged via lowside. Am I at least on the right track?

 

Sounds to me like the orifice tube is plugged.

 

AC Pressure - Engine Off


AC Pressure - Engine On

 

I think thats just the pressure from the r-134 you pumped in showing on the low side that should equal out in the system after a bit.

You need to pull the orifice tube and check it so you know its OK also did you replace the dryer accumulator that’s a must if the system was down and or opened? If you buy a new compressor they usually will not honor a guarantee unless the dryer accumulator and orifice tube were replaced with the new compressor some want a complete system flush out before instalation also.

As I said A/C work is a tricky complicated system now will replacing both these parts get you up and running maybe yes maybe NO. Plenty of other things could be wrong mainly the compressor or compressor clutch or wiring.

Just to show how complicated it can be when my A/C first died I took it too 5 A/C shops yes 5 they all could not fix it or find out why it stopped working. A friend suggested I try an independent shop owner he got it running but never explained what he did.

When I moved to HOT Arizona my A/C died the first day took it to a shop they fixed it a month later it was down they fixed it again a month later its down they supposedly fixed it again only to have it go down a month later. I go to a different shop they fix it any YES it stayed fixed. Two years later its down again this time the clutch died I replace it myself and I'm good.

Thats when I decided I need to learn how A/C works and how to fix it myself.

 

So given all advice, I've gone back to square one... After a 3rd inoperable AC Compressor (When applying 12v directly to the unit no audible click is heard, only slight movement of the clutch face-plate. You can see it being drawn rearward but it's like the magnet has lost its electromagnetic force and it never makes full contact) I'm considering going the eBay route... Below I've included the links for the components I'm looking to replace. Also, I couldn't find anything in my engine bay that looks like the "Liquid Hose-Liquid Line w/ Orifice Tube". Could I be over looking it, or is the part I've chosen not correct for the 1997 3.9 setup?

Re-manufactured OEM - https://www.ebay.com/itm/352194843723 - $76
New A/C Accumulator Drier - https://www.ebay.com/itm/132401642314 - $25
New Liquid Hose-Liquid Line w/ Orifice Tube - https://www.ebay.com/itm/332687600227 - $13

 

Wonder if its just a generic pic..... I would not really want to order it though, just in case. Anything on rock auto?

 

I haven't checked RA, but I've changed up that list. The seller of the Compressor has the Accumulator Drier & Orifice Tube (just the Orifice Tube) in stock also. I also found the reason the Liquid Hose-Liquid Line w/ Orifice Tube didn't look anything like my setup. In 97 they used a fixed Orifice Tube located at the top of the condenser outlet tube. I believe you mentioned the Orifice Tube causing similar issues with low high-side pressures and the clutch not engaging, can they be cleaned and reinserted for testing? Since it's at the top of the condenser outlet tube and not shoved halfway up a liquid line...

 

When my oriface tube failed, it wiped out everything. I had a shop replace the compressor and oriface tube, when they tok the lines off the compressor they were filled with metal from the compressor chewing itself up. Ended up with new compressor, condenser, dryer, and oriface tube for $1100 with all new (not reman) parts including labor and refridgerant.

 

Wow, under no circumstances could I justify $1100 on AC work... heck the truck running & driving was only $800. It's also not that hot here in Ohio, well at least not year round.

 

OK if you follow all the correct steps DIY total spent would be $300 to $400 MAX
Compressor = $200 to $300 sounds like you understand the other parts.

New orifice tube, drier/accumulator new seals the disconnect tool, gauge set, vacuum pump.

The only unforeseen is why the system was down black death metal shards from a destroyed compressor or leaky A/C Evaporator Core or wiring problems.

It sounds scary sort of complicated but most can do it buy a cheap compressor rockauto Four seasons $150 or GDP $110.

Cold A/C is great

Pull the orifice tube check it out if black = Bad or if metal chunks in orifice tube = Bad = more money.

Black death is not so bad you can buy a system flush kit but a condenser replacement is advised about $80 if you buy a new condenser you can skip the flush some black death may remain but not be a problem. But be 100% sure the pag 100 is at the proper oz. an extra 1 oz. is advised.