I have a 2000 dodge dakota slt 4.9l that has a no bus trans code. My cluster is dead. No tach, speedo, temp sensors, or other dials on the cluster work. The tach turns on when you start it and it bumps up to 450ish rpm and freezes there, it doesnt move when you give it some gas and then it just goes to zero after about 10 to 30 seconds of the engine running. I might try hitting the cluster to see if it comes to life. I doubt it will but any test is a good test eight? haha

 

Moved to the correct section. Make sure you post in the 2nd gen Dakota section and not the generic "Dakota" section. No one visits that section.

 

Thanks

 

You can try to test the cluster.

With the key off, press and hold the trip reset button. While holding it down, turn the key to ON, do not start the truck. Continue holding the button until CHEC appears in the odometer window.
It will test all the gauges and lights.

Post back with any codes. These are not P-codes but cluster codes.

 

i ran the codes on the cluster and they are 900 920 921 940 950 960 and 999. i called a mechanic shop in houston and he said the codes i collected sound like i need a new computer and i agree. the last time i drove it it kept stalling out on the highway and not starting sometimes. then i parked it up till now

 

Before you replace the computer, check the cam and crank sensors. If they short out they can take out the CCD bus - and give you starting and other problems.

 

It starts fine, i drove it yesterday around my pasture. But i will look into it to see if it is failing or dead
Can you elaborate on the other issues?

 

Knowing your locale - and having dealt with this myself - I have to wonder if there have been malicious activities in the engine bay or under the dash that may have damaged the ccd buss comms to the cluster and possibly faulted the electrical ignition switch or possibly other harnesses.

A mouse wiped out the PCM in my Ram. Only ate 2 wires, but they were the wrong wires to be damaged....

 

that makes sense, especially since i have no driver window... some ahole busted it out trying to steal it, only to find it had no battery in it. do i need to pull the dash out to look or can i pull out everything from the dash to look? id rather not have to pull the dash if i dont have to. but i have all day to do it tomorrow. i ordered a new crank sensor just because the one in there is old and i have to crawl up under the truck to do an oil change so why not? it cant hurt to change it unless i break the connector off somehow.

 

I was being more specific to mouse/rodent activities

Here is a trick for the crank sensor: The connector is right behind the distributor, crawl up on top and it's easy to get to. You'll see 2 connectors, one for distributor cam signal and one for crank.

Then peel back the rear part of the inner fender (I haven't had inner's on either side in a very long time, since we don't have winter salt to splash up and eat everything it touches, although if you go to Galveston you'll want to wash off any sea salt that gets around), and you'll be looking straight in at the crank sensor. Both bolts are 1/2" head 5/16 thread. The inside bolt is partially blocked by the grounding bolt for the passenger head, so it can be a trick to get to. The factory bolts have a 1/4" allen pattern in them as well, if you have allen head sockets.

Use a 12" extension and you should be able to get right to them. Again, inside one is a trick because of that ground bolt, but you'll figure it out real quick.