Oil guage
#11
#12
The main bearings are lubricated by a hydrodynamic liquid wedge that forms when the crankshaft is rotating. Oil in incompressible so as long as you have oil there, low viscosity won't matter, it's lack of oil or extremely dirty oil that would cause bearing wear. The upper reaches, such as the push rods are lubricated by a thin oil film so that's were you need good oil flow and a high strength oil film. Full syn all the way...flows better, protects better and keeps the engine cleaner. Note that he said pressure is higher when he starts the engine, or before warm up. High viscosity, cold weather, cold engine.... you get the idea.
Last edited by Dodgevity; 02-03-2019 at 11:17 PM.
#13
Higher viscosity oil protects better than lower viscosity oil, I would never recommend using a lower viscosity oil than what an engine was designed for, especially not 20 weight in an engine that was designed to use as high as a 50 weight oil. It is likely to make the engine more noisy as well, as for keeping it clean diesel oils have way more detergents in them than gas engine oils and do a great job of cleaning up the engine and keeping it clean.
#14
Viscosity is ability to flow at a certain temp, not how well an oil protects. That's film strength. Anyway, don't want to start an oil war. Everyone can keep using what makes them happy. If his oil pressure is truly high, thats the way I'd go along with a larger oil filter. First I'd confirm it though with a mechanical gauge or changing out the pressure sender.
Last edited by Dodgevity; 02-03-2019 at 11:32 PM.
#15
My ‘01 oil pressure did the same thing for the entirety of my ownership that’s normal and good as far as I can tell. Once it got warm it would drop lower, especially at a warm idle.
Here is a very interesting (and very long) blog about oil a lot of people may enjoy reading in spare time. I DONT NECESSARILY AGREE WITH EVERYTHING in here but a large portion of it can be very beneficial knowledge and answer many questions.
https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/201...-test-ranking/
I just use a reputable 5-30 conventional in spring summer fall. And a reputable full synthetic 5-30 in the winter because it typically flows easier in the cold. And it gets COLD in ND. -37 F last week BEFORE windchill. 😵
Here is a very interesting (and very long) blog about oil a lot of people may enjoy reading in spare time. I DONT NECESSARILY AGREE WITH EVERYTHING in here but a large portion of it can be very beneficial knowledge and answer many questions.
https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/201...-test-ranking/
I just use a reputable 5-30 conventional in spring summer fall. And a reputable full synthetic 5-30 in the winter because it typically flows easier in the cold. And it gets COLD in ND. -37 F last week BEFORE windchill. 😵
Last edited by Zingo; 02-05-2019 at 11:07 AM.
#16
Its good to know its not a uncommon thing in these motors !
At idle after driving i noticed it was a lot lower but ill look again soon after changing oil at start up to compare .
I also didnt think it was a good idea to ever switch around from conventional to synthetic oils then back an forth.but i may be wrong if your in a area with -32 at times ..,luckily im in Tn so its not that extreme.
Ill stay with the 10w 30 conventional an go with high milage oil for now .Maybe check with a guage later.
Thanks
At idle after driving i noticed it was a lot lower but ill look again soon after changing oil at start up to compare .
I also didnt think it was a good idea to ever switch around from conventional to synthetic oils then back an forth.but i may be wrong if your in a area with -32 at times ..,luckily im in Tn so its not that extreme.
Ill stay with the 10w 30 conventional an go with high milage oil for now .Maybe check with a guage later.
Thanks
#17
Its good to know its not a uncommon thing in these motors !
At idle after driving i noticed it was a lot lower but ill look again soon after changing oil at start up to compare .
I also didnt think it was a good idea to ever switch around from conventional to synthetic oils then back an forth.but i may be wrong if your in a area with -32 at times ..,luckily im in Tn so its not that extreme.
Ill think stay with the 10w 30 conventional an go with high milage oil for now .Maybe check with a guage later.
Dodgevity may be correct on thickness factoring higher pressure too..i added some sea foam [4oz ]to oil at idle for a while before i was going to change it an it seemed to be at a much lower reading on guage.
Does that indicate that a 5w30 would bring it down being thinner ?
Thanks
At idle after driving i noticed it was a lot lower but ill look again soon after changing oil at start up to compare .
I also didnt think it was a good idea to ever switch around from conventional to synthetic oils then back an forth.but i may be wrong if your in a area with -32 at times ..,luckily im in Tn so its not that extreme.
Ill think stay with the 10w 30 conventional an go with high milage oil for now .Maybe check with a guage later.
Dodgevity may be correct on thickness factoring higher pressure too..i added some sea foam [4oz ]to oil at idle for a while before i was going to change it an it seemed to be at a much lower reading on guage.
Does that indicate that a 5w30 would bring it down being thinner ?
Thanks
#18
Dodgevity may be correct on thickness factoring higher pressure too..i added some sea foam [4oz ]to oil at idle for a while before i was going to change it an it seemed to be at a much lower reading on guage.
Does that indicate that a 5w30 would bring it down being thinner ?
Thanks
Does that indicate that a 5w30 would bring it down being thinner ?
Thanks
Last edited by Dodgevity; 02-09-2019 at 08:18 AM.