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Finally: an LED compatible Combination Flasher

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  #11  
Old 10-05-2019, 12:19 PM
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Yeah, it was the #1 under-hood fuse. I had only checked the cabin fuse panel last night. I actually forgot there was another fuse till I checked it early this morning. It didn't even look blown, as in no separation of metal. It was only when I swapped it with another nearby 20 Amp, that it began working. Was afraid I might have toasted something in the CTM last night. LOL

Anyway, I had to put back in the old relay as it seems the resistance of the modified relay is too high for the circuit. I have LEDs all around and while the fronts flash with the indicator, only one bank of the rear LEDs light up.... while the rest flash ever so dimly. The rears LED tails came with flasher modules which are supposed to have the right resistance, but they began hyper-flashing only weeks after I got them. Still, I believe the resistance of the modules added to the resistor that I put on the relay is too much. Even the directional arrows in the cluster are much dimmer when using the indicator, vs the hazards. The hazards has em lighting up normally.
 

Last edited by Dodgevity; 10-05-2019 at 12:28 PM.
  #12  
Old 10-05-2019, 01:29 PM
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Did you use the right size resistor? Sounds like you are off by a factor of 10
 
  #13  
Old 10-05-2019, 07:30 PM
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Originally Posted by magnethead
Right now I have the 4 switchbacks up front and incandescents in the back. I'm going to get some red LED tails and stab them in, but my math says I should still be good.
Did you try the LED tails yet? You might run into the same issue.

This is the resistor I used. Sorry for the big *** pic.


 
  #14  
Old 10-05-2019, 09:53 PM
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you're actually off by a factor of 100. You need a 1/10 ohm resistor, not a 10 ohm.

I have all bulbs LED now.
 
  #15  
Old 10-06-2019, 09:57 AM
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Originally Posted by magnethead
you're actually off by a factor of 100. You need a 1/10 ohm resistor, not a 10 ohm.

I have all bulbs LED now.
Crap! Went back and reviewed my order. I did order 0.1 ohm but they sent me 10 ohm instead. I didn't even really think about the "10R" cause I busted out the soldering iron the minute they arrived. Shoulda put my multimeter on it.

Thanks for the sharp eye...guess I'll be doing this again.
 
  #16  
Old 10-06-2019, 03:58 PM
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Hey, did you convert to LED headlight bulbs too? If so, any suggestions... pics?
 
  #17  
Old 10-06-2019, 07:38 PM
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No, I am still halogen heads.
 
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  #18  
Old 10-17-2019, 12:39 PM
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Well, I finally got this done. Ain't pretty but it works great. Flashing at normal speed again. Just ordered some LED headlight bulbs and got my LED fogs put back in. I had removed them cause water leaked into one. They're all sealed up now. Pretty much everything on the truck is LED now, except for dash display, glove box and bed lights.

 

Last edited by Dodgevity; 10-17-2019 at 01:04 PM.
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  #19  
Old 05-15-2020, 11:15 PM
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Bump - I just ordered enough stuff to hopefully be able to knock out 8 of these next week. 2 are already spoken for.
 
  #20  
Old 05-20-2020, 12:30 AM
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So, for the sake of testing without umpteen trips to the truck, I'm trying to make a test circuit in my office. I have load resistors on each corner that makes the total current draw 1 amp per side, plus 3 LED's drawing 20mA each. I'm toggling ground for left/right/haz and supplying power for brake.

Since the load on my truck comes out to about 1.1 amps per side, I figured 1 amp here would be plenty (Technically, the 1.06 amps is identical to on the truck). 800mA and less is the threshold for hyperflash after the modification.

The stock shunt is 30 mOhms with a 87mV threshold - 2.9 amps threshold per side.

This go-round I'm using much smaller 10-watt 0.1 ohm resistors. Without a formal heatsink, they are good to about 5 watts. 1.1 amps flowing @ 0.11 volts shunted is about 0.2 watts if you want to round it off.
 

Last edited by magnethead; 05-20-2020 at 12:33 AM.


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