Cat delete
it is when you use them to defeat an emission device.
I'm well aware that some states are more restrictive than where I live. However, anti-foul adapters keep the plugs from fouling and therefore burn hotter and cleaner with less smoke. Why would that defeat an emissions device?
The 420 code is "catalyst system efficiency below threshold"
If you gut the converter, you will make that situation worse.
On a nissan, I tried the anti-foulers, and it did not work. Also tried letting the rear sensor hang, and that also set a code.
IMO its best to bite the bullet and fix it. If it turns out to be the converter, make sure you are not having a problem that killed it, ie, bad injector, burning oil, etc.
And FWIW disabling anything emissions wise is a federal crime. In Va at the annual safety inspection, they check to see that the parts are on the vehicle, (even when a actual emissions test is not required)
If you gut the converter, you will make that situation worse.
On a nissan, I tried the anti-foulers, and it did not work. Also tried letting the rear sensor hang, and that also set a code.
IMO its best to bite the bullet and fix it. If it turns out to be the converter, make sure you are not having a problem that killed it, ie, bad injector, burning oil, etc.
And FWIW disabling anything emissions wise is a federal crime. In Va at the annual safety inspection, they check to see that the parts are on the vehicle, (even when a actual emissions test is not required)
The 420 code is "catalyst system efficiency below threshold"
If you gut the converter, you will make that situation worse.
On a nissan, I tried the anti-foulers, and it did not work. Also tried letting the rear sensor hang, and that also set a code.
IMO its best to bite the bullet and fix it. If it turns out to be the converter, make sure you are not having a problem that killed it, ie, bad injector, burning oil, etc.
And FWIW disabling anything emissions wise is a federal crime. In Va at the annual safety inspection, they check to see that the parts are on the vehicle, (even when a actual emissions test is not required)
If you gut the converter, you will make that situation worse.
On a nissan, I tried the anti-foulers, and it did not work. Also tried letting the rear sensor hang, and that also set a code.
IMO its best to bite the bullet and fix it. If it turns out to be the converter, make sure you are not having a problem that killed it, ie, bad injector, burning oil, etc.
And FWIW disabling anything emissions wise is a federal crime. In Va at the annual safety inspection, they check to see that the parts are on the vehicle, (even when a actual emissions test is not required)
I'd never heard of that. Then again, I try to live an honest, upstanding life and follow the rule religiously.
So back to the topic, does anyone know if my exhaust clamp idea would work or would it not fit all the way around the cat? I would buy a new one but its 250$ and a waste, I want my truck a little louder, gutting would be the same as buying those universal ones would it not?
Obviously they don't work the same, I have had the cat off of every Chrysler gas vehicle I have owned and never gotten a check engine light after I pulled the rear O2 sensor out.












