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Old Jan 3, 2020 | 12:22 PM
  #21  
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Pulled it out and tied it to the frame.
 
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Old Jan 3, 2020 | 12:24 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Teckus
So back to the topic, does anyone know if my exhaust clamp idea would work or would it not fit all the way around the cat? I would buy a new one but its 250$ and a waste, I want my truck a little louder, gutting would be the same as buying those universal ones would it not?
You will have a exhaust leak if you try to clamp the cat together after you cut it apart. You can probably pull the cat off and just punch everything out with a hammer and chisel.
 
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Old Jan 3, 2020 | 12:27 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by 00t444e
You will have a exhaust leak if you try to clamp the cat together after you cut it apart. You can probably pull the cat off and just punch everything out with a hammer and chisel.
it is held in by 4 bolts right? And I've seen ways to just hammer the cat while it's on there but that seems risky
 
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Old Jan 3, 2020 | 12:34 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by 00t444e
Obviously they don't work the same, I have had the cat off of every Chrysler gas vehicle I have owned and never gotten a check engine light after I pulled the rear O2 sensor out.



That is good to know...... Maybe the chrysler system is not as advanced..... I was told that the o2 sensors have to get to 600 degrees to start working. Maybe the nissan computer took the out of range reading (due to being cold) and still set a code, who knows....

If I was going to try it, I would do as you said, screw it out and tie it up. The op could screw a spark plug in the hole to plug it.

Back to the OP, If I was you, I would look down the Throttle body and see if there is oil in there. If so, fix the plenum seal.
 
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Old Jan 3, 2020 | 01:06 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by 93 ragtop


That is good to know...... Maybe the chrysler system is not as advanced..... I was told that the o2 sensors have to get to 600 degrees to start working. Maybe the nissan computer took the out of range reading (due to being cold) and still set a code, who knows....

If I was going to try it, I would do as you said, screw it out and tie it up. The op could screw a spark plug in the hole to plug it.

Back to the OP, If I was you, I would look down the Throttle body and see if there is oil in there. If so, fix the plenum seal.
is a plenum seal an easy fix? It's currently cold and I have no garage so I'm not looking to work on It for hours, what does it also do?
 
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Old Jan 3, 2020 | 01:12 PM
  #26  
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Thats not working for me, 2010 Challenger with 5.7, tried several different ways and angles, also tried the resistor/capacitor thing, just gave different codes.
Car has been running open loop for 4 or 5 years after installing headers and no cats. I saw this fixing and the anti fowler deal worked for about 2 miles or 10, but it ran better than ever until CEL comes back on, then it starts bucking and missing, guess its trying to regulate A/F mix.
So with the 2010 Challenger leave cats on!!!
 
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Old Jan 3, 2020 | 01:38 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Teckus
is a plenum seal an easy fix? It's currently cold and I have no garage so I'm not looking to work on It for hours, what does it also do?
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...um-thread.html
 
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Old Jan 5, 2020 | 07:49 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Teckus
is a plenum seal an easy fix? It's currently cold and I have no garage so I'm not looking to work on It for hours, what does it also do?



Jkeaton posted a good link to the fix. But again, I would just look down the Throttle body and see if you see oil..... Also, before gutting the cat, I would try what 00t444e suggested, take the rear o2 sensor out and tie it up. I would screw a old sparkplug in the hole to plug it, or even drive it with the leak to see if it solves the engine light problem.
If you do decide to gut the cat, why not cut the pipe behind it, punch it out with a piece of water pipe, etc, blow it out, and then use a band clamp to put the pipe back together? This is of course assuming you cannot seperate the pipe from the cat.
 
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Old Jan 5, 2020 | 11:42 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by 93 ragtop


Jkeaton posted a good link to the fix. But again, I would just look down the Throttle body and see if you see oil..... Also, before gutting the cat, I would try what 00t444e suggested, take the rear o2 sensor out and tie it up. I would screw a old sparkplug in the hole to plug it, or even drive it with the leak to see if it solves the engine light problem.
If you do decide to gut the cat, why not cut the pipe behind it, punch it out with a piece of water pipe, etc, blow it out, and then use a band clamp to put the pipe back together? This is of course assuming you cannot seperate the pipe from the cat.
to be honest with you I neccesarily dont really care about the CEL mostly because 2nd gens have a built in code reader, but i will see and gut it when it gets warm out and see how it goes
 
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Old Jan 5, 2020 | 05:59 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Teckus
So back to the topic, does anyone know if my exhaust clamp idea would work or would it not fit all the way around the cat? I would buy a new one but its 250$ and a waste, I want my truck a little louder, gutting would be the same as buying those universal ones would it not?

no wont work.
 
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