I have a 2000 Dodge Dakota 3.9 v6 base pickup.

I get no blowing fan but in running a hot wire from battery to fan, I have a blowing fan. I replaced the blower motor resistor "pack" (in added picture), and replaced the climate controls (from a junk yard). On turn on the controls, after turning the switches a few times, I hear a squee-ing noise (it does not seem to come from the fan) but the fan does not blow. When the truck is running and has heated up some, I feel heat from the defroster ducts but no real air blowing. I have approx 11.8v power to the speed selection switch, checked it with a circuit tester.

I replaced the 40 Amp blower motor relay with a new one. Checked the fuse for "Rear defroster/FRT Blower" and it seems good (used a continuity meter).

The picture below is the old blower motor "resistor pack".

This is the old one i took out snd replaced with a new one.
The picture below is the new blower motor "resistor pack".

 

Wiring Diagrams: (For 2001: Your 2000 may differ)


https://photos.app.goo.gl/uCSN75s63sWMQ7VB7

https://photos.app.goo.gl/k1iVumseYkkNr9UYA

 

I have power to the controls, power to the blower relay pack and power to the fan, so I am confused as to why I do not have a working heater? I tried to find out where that squee-ing noise was coming from, it seems to orinate somewhere in the middle of the dash?

 

I think the switch provides ground path..... So, check the grounds AFTER the control head.

 

With the speed controller set to 'high' speed:

1- Measure the voltage at the 12 gauge Dark Green wire supplying power to the blower motor, and note it.
2- Measure the voltage at the 12 gauge Dark Blue / Yellow wire coming out of the blower motor, and note it.
3- Measure the voltage at the 12 gauge Dark Blue / Yellow wire going into the resistor pack, and note it. (This Should be the same as step 2)
4- Measure the voltage at the 12 gauge Black / Tan wire coming out of the resistor pack, and note it.
5- Measure the voltage at the 12 gauge Black / Tan wire going into the control panel, and note it. (This Should be the same as step 4)
6- Measure the voltage at the 10 gauge Black wire coming out of the control panel, and note it.

Please make sure you use a known-good ground reference for the volt-meter at every stage.

Report back your findings and I'll explain what's wrong.

 

Many resistor kits supply larger wiring to it since it's a known problem with the smaller wiring to the resistor[many burnouts].Its a good idea to replace that wiring when new harness is replaced .
High fan setting can bypasses resistor.
.On mine ,an common,it burnt out - pic

 

My first suspect would be a blower motor with worn bearings/bushings. This would cause a high current draw and subsequent resistor burnout. If the resistors burned up and the motor bearings are bad, replacing the resistors without also replacing the motor is an exercise in futility.

 

My truck had a melted wire on the fan motor which caused the fan to stop working. Replaced the wiring harness plug with a new one, works fine now.

Thought I'd throw that out.