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Old Apr 18, 2020 | 04:42 PM
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Default Nasty heads

So I pulled the head cover off the passenger side before to see if I had any fallen rocker arms and luckily none had but it was really nasty with caked oil. I ran some moly cleaner through it, seemed to lessen where it was baked onto the interior of the head but is rather still caked onto the cam and rocker arms. So I guess my first question is how do you clean the caked on crap. Second I pulled one of the rocker arms and looked at the lifter. So I can't push down on it (ie no spring action) but after a little playing with it I can at least spin it so I'm not sure if it's a fixed lifter orva standard spring loaded one
 
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Old Apr 19, 2020 | 05:44 AM
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What engine? I"m going to guess 4.7L.

You should replace all the lifters. When they get hard like that, they seize and throw rockers. I"m in the process of doing that right now. These are Sealed Power brand. I'd tell you to run a motor flush through it, but I'm afraid you will clog the oil pickup if it's that bad. You may need to do it anyway, then pull the oil pan and clean the pickup..

Start running a thin full synthetic and stay away from conventional. I run 0W20.


 
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Old Apr 19, 2020 | 08:31 AM
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Yes it's a 4.7l in going to clean the rockers best I can. I ran the moly cleaner through it and it's only this disgusting so it may require a couple more flushes and then drop the pan, no idea what was in the motor when I got it but it's first change was a high mileage synblend but I will probably goto a full synthetic next. I intend on changing the lifters anyhow. They are soaking at the moment. So they either collapse or get bound up with junk?
 
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Old Apr 19, 2020 | 09:01 AM
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Originally Posted by angrysmileyface
Yes it's a 4.7l in going to clean the rockers best I can. I ran the moly cleaner through it and it's only this disgusting so it may require a couple more flushes and then drop the pan, no idea what was in the motor when I got it but it's first change was a high mileage synblend but I will probably goto a full synthetic next. I intend on changing the lifters anyhow. They are soaking at the moment. So they either collapse or get bound up with junk?
At this age, I'd change them cause the springs are worn. If a rocker ejects, it can do damage. When new, they are nice and springy as you push down on the plunger. None of mine were like that. If I grabbed the plunger, it would move up and down with no springiness, which would cause that cold start clatter. The seized one wouldn't move at all.

If I were you, I'd spend the hundred bucks and get a set. Use the Advance discount at the top of the page. You need 16 of them.

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...271/19690646-P
 

Last edited by Dodgevity; Apr 19, 2020 at 09:03 AM.
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Old Apr 19, 2020 | 01:56 PM
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Got 7 out of 8 lifters changed in the passenger side. (Started to rain) all of the 7 were able to spin but had 0 springyness. The new ones look very similar to the ones I removed but they flex.
 
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Old May 2, 2020 | 08:16 PM
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So I finished up the passenger side and moved onto the driver side. Cover was a biotch. Replaced all the lifters, but have a new concern. The rocker arm had fallen off the last valve (lifter was not moving like any of them), but when I put the new lifter in there appeared to be minimal resistance from the valve side of things and it felt like the rocker could zip out potentially. None of the other arms felt like this. The other 15 seemed relatively fine. So I guess my question is, how do I determine what this is? And depending on results my next course of action?
 
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Old May 2, 2020 | 08:48 PM
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Originally Posted by angrysmileyface
So I finished up the passenger side and moved onto the driver side. Cover was a biotch. Replaced all the lifters, but have a new concern. The rocker arm had fallen off the last valve (lifter was not moving like any of them), but when I put the new lifter in there appeared to be minimal resistance from the valve side of things and it felt like the rocker could zip out potentially. None of the other arms felt like this. The other 15 seemed relatively fine. So I guess my question is, how do I determine what this is? And depending on results my next course of action?
Are you sure it's not paranoia? If so, it would be understandable.

Were you rotating the engine so the cam lobes would be at the lowest point for the rockers to slide in? You might have simply had that cam lobe already in the optimal position, so resistance was low. Also, I've heard of people dropping a flat washer into the lifter hole so it lets the lifter sit a bit higher. My problem with that is that I observed an oil port in the bottom of each hole and would hate to block that.
 
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Old May 2, 2020 | 09:36 PM
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It might be paranoia, but it felt like the rocker would slip out way to easily.
 
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Old May 3, 2020 | 02:59 PM
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Wound up removing the intake manifold. I peered into the runner with the valve with low resistance on the rocker arm, looks like the seat is just sl7ghtly cockeyed holding the valve open and the lack of resistance pushed the rocker arm out. Guess this means I gotta pull the head. I picked up another one this morning just in case. So in light of this, what is reusable? I don't think the head studs are, and I doubt the gasket is. The chain on the underside feels like it might have some slop to it, the water pump is new and I'm changing injectors as well. Appreciate all insight also does any have recommendation for a good kit or set of kits
 

Last edited by angrysmileyface; May 3, 2020 at 04:12 PM.
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Old May 3, 2020 | 05:39 PM
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I think you can rent a bore scope from your local parts store..... Pull the plug, have a look inside the cylinder. Should be obvious if the valve seat has dropped.
 
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