I was looking at replacing rear passenger brake cylinder an inspect the brake,an noticed this part of parking brake wasnt attatched..Where does it go exactly an should there be a clip or spring at that end at top.

 

E-brake lever. The flat bar that goes across behind there fits into it, and that hook goes into the brake shoe. Unfortunately, on yours, I believe it hooks on the back side. (which means, you get to take it all apart again.)

 

Got it hooked in .Thanks
Also wanted to know ,--- I did a full bleed before the work on the rear an still have air/ spongy pedal an a squeek when I let up on pedal,is a bit spongy still .Also the rubber diaphram on brake fluid cap is getting sucked inward fast.

I also notice a slight change in idle at the stop light.
Does that sound like the booster going bad? Or master cylinder? Both?

 

Probably still have some air in the lines. Can be a pain to get it all out.

 

Rebled everything an a tiny bit of air but not a lot.
I still hear that spring as I pump them.Faint hum.
After retightening the line after letting any air out ,on each bleed,that pedal lost all pressure fully.
No oil in the booster line to engine an the 1way valve was clean an working.

Note n last line,when bleeding, at drivers side front, the cap on the brake fluid cover colapsed in.

Does it sound like the master cylinder plunger an or booster is weak ?.I did 3 tests on booster an seemed ok but I bet theres a leak internally somewhere .
What should I look at testing an checking next .An what steps.
thanks

 

On my 01 3.9 2wd I'm getting a regular spring like squeek noise in brake pedal an a lot of air in the pedal though I've bled the brakes a lot..Sounds like in booster but not sure.Spongy pedal w air .
After bleed pedal is very loose floose maxed all air from the 4 bleeders.
Also on last bleed in front drivers side the cap rubber seal collapses in ..An has after driving .
Does this sound like a failing booster or maybe cylinder internal leak ,or both an what should I look at /test?
Thanks

 

How are you bleeding the brakes? Are you using a scan tool to cycle the ABS?

Does the pedal hold in position or drop?

There are springs and a diaphragm in the booster and they can make some noise.

 

I dont have the abs on my scanner.I may get one later though. Im getting no abs or brake light error, or codes .
Pedal sinks,[but a little pressure], unless pumped an at release the springs squeak.Hum noise a little. As testing it with a person the squeek was around the booster .Something is causing that cap to collapse in after driving also.
I got another booster to try on it ,but wanted some insight 1st.
Does a leak in the booster cause a small hesitation ,sometimes ,as sitting at a light in drive,due to air from the booster hose to intake?
An how do I do a bench test on tge booster off the truck?
Thanks for the suggestions.

 

If the booster was bad, the pedal would be 100% stiff just like with engine off. The connecting rod between the pedal and the plunger is a fixed length, it's not going to collapse or anything. All it does is move back and forth in the housing (research how a diaphragm booster works). A spongey pedal with engine running means either the booster is working at 100% or the master or ABS unit has a seal bypassing internally. A spongey pedal with engine off points 100% to the master or ABS having a failed seal.

 

Sounds like you're doing the 2 man pump here. One guy pumps the pedal, the other does the bleeding. Pump 5-6 times, hold, the bleeder cracks the bleeder then tightens it before the pedal reaches the floor. If it reaches the floor, air can be sucked back in through the bleeder screw. The correct order is to bleed furthest back from the booster to nearest front, which means rr, lr, rf, lf on left hand drive vehicles. You will also want to bleed them longer on the rear as you have to draw any air in the system from the front to the rear. When I do it, I bleed each wheel until I see clear fluid.

That springing sound you hear is normal for drum brakes. The engine normally covers it up. Nothing to worry about provided it's all put together properly.

The front cap collapsing is normal. The cap's purpose is to limit air intrusion into the master cylinder. Air itself isn't a problem (unless you let it go dry) but the moisture in the air is. Brake fluid is hydroscopic, which means it absorbs water, and water in the brake lines causes all sorts of problems. It will corrode the inside of the lines, and when the brakes are used hard it will vaporize from the heat. Water is not compressible, but steam is, so when there's water in the lines hard brake usage will result in no brakes. When I bleed them, I usually refill the master cylinder about every 15 pump cycles.

If you have antilock brakes, you may have to get them flushed by the dealer unless you have access to a tool that will open the valves. There's a procedure that goes with flushing the ABS unit.

If there is an internal booster leak, there's typically a hissing sound that goes with it. It's loud and you won't miss it if it's there. And, if there's a master cylinder leak, you should be losing fluid.

Hope some of this helps.