2002 Dakota - Windows work if mirrors are unplugged!
#1
2002 Dakota - Windows work if mirrors are unplugged!
Hey everyone!
I have an 02 dakota, I recently replaced all of the window motors and tracks. I had one fail, did the other three as preventative maintenance... I've had so many fail since owning the truck for almost 20 years....
The issue I'm having is the main switch appears to loose power and fails to operate the windows now.
The symptom I see is, When key is turned to on. The lights on the switch light up, then flicker and go out.
The windows will not operate with the master switch or local switch.
I have replaced the master switch and 25 amp fuse. No change.
With the old switch or new switch installed, If I remove the plug to the mirrors, the windows appear to work!
If I place my finger tips on the 25 amp Window fuse, I can feel it "Click" like it's a relay, when the mirrors are plugged in.
Does this sound like a bad CTM? I've replaced a few window motors and fuses but am at a loss of what to check next.
I have tried unplugging the negative terminal to see if that "reset" something...
Any help is appreciated! Thanks in advance!
I have an 02 dakota, I recently replaced all of the window motors and tracks. I had one fail, did the other three as preventative maintenance... I've had so many fail since owning the truck for almost 20 years....
The issue I'm having is the main switch appears to loose power and fails to operate the windows now.
The symptom I see is, When key is turned to on. The lights on the switch light up, then flicker and go out.
The windows will not operate with the master switch or local switch.
I have replaced the master switch and 25 amp fuse. No change.
With the old switch or new switch installed, If I remove the plug to the mirrors, the windows appear to work!
If I place my finger tips on the 25 amp Window fuse, I can feel it "Click" like it's a relay, when the mirrors are plugged in.
Does this sound like a bad CTM? I've replaced a few window motors and fuses but am at a loss of what to check next.
I have tried unplugging the negative terminal to see if that "reset" something...
Any help is appreciated! Thanks in advance!
#2
#3
Different fuses but they share the same ground.
Not a bad CTM, neither item is controlled by it. Both run through the drivers door module.
Also, it's not a fuse, it's a circuit breaker so the click you feel is it tripping. You have a short somewhere. Possibly in the wire bundle to the door.
Not a bad CTM, neither item is controlled by it. Both run through the drivers door module.
Also, it's not a fuse, it's a circuit breaker so the click you feel is it tripping. You have a short somewhere. Possibly in the wire bundle to the door.
#4
Different fuses but they share the same ground.
Not a bad CTM, neither item is controlled by it. Both run through the drivers door module.
Also, it's not a fuse, it's a circuit breaker so the click you feel is it tripping. You have a short somewhere. Possibly in the wire bundle to the door.
Not a bad CTM, neither item is controlled by it. Both run through the drivers door module.
Also, it's not a fuse, it's a circuit breaker so the click you feel is it tripping. You have a short somewhere. Possibly in the wire bundle to the door.
I'll tear that apart today and see what I can find!
Glad to hear it's not a CTM!
#5
Nothing found on drivers side.... I'll keep tearing the door panels and wire looms apart...
For now, I can at least have functional windows with the mirrors unplugged from the main driver side switch.
I tried isolating the drivers side mirror, no luck.
if anyone else has thoughts, happy to hear them!
Thanks again for the great community!
For now, I can at least have functional windows with the mirrors unplugged from the main driver side switch.
I tried isolating the drivers side mirror, no luck.
if anyone else has thoughts, happy to hear them!
Thanks again for the great community!
#6
Update...
I have been driving a bit and stripping all the doors down and looking for shorts.
Long story short, now the rear windows won't roll down with the local switch but do when the switch is plugged in and the master switch is used...
Currently the window lock does affect the passenger front window, and I have two master switches that both yield the same results...
The only think I can conclude, is; A - I haven't found the root of the issue, and B - it appears to be getting worse!?
When I plug in the mirrors to test, it does appear to be a short, the plug is getting warm at a rapid rate.
I haven't been able to identify what is the individual wire, but it's still mostly functional if I leave the mirrors unplugged.
Final thought?
Could it be the mirror defroster circuit?
Any thoughts where that is controlled or ran by?
I'm going to look at a diagram when I get a few. any other thoughts/suggestions welcome!
I have been driving a bit and stripping all the doors down and looking for shorts.
Long story short, now the rear windows won't roll down with the local switch but do when the switch is plugged in and the master switch is used...
Currently the window lock does affect the passenger front window, and I have two master switches that both yield the same results...
The only think I can conclude, is; A - I haven't found the root of the issue, and B - it appears to be getting worse!?
When I plug in the mirrors to test, it does appear to be a short, the plug is getting warm at a rapid rate.
I haven't been able to identify what is the individual wire, but it's still mostly functional if I leave the mirrors unplugged.
Final thought?
Could it be the mirror defroster circuit?
Any thoughts where that is controlled or ran by?
I'm going to look at a diagram when I get a few. any other thoughts/suggestions welcome!
#7
You might try disconnecting the battery, then use a multimeter to see if incorrect wires are connected. Set the meter to check continuity, then use one lead of the multimeter to tap a wire plug on the harness side, then use the other lead to probe the harness side of the window switch plug. You'll plug the meter into one wire at a time on the mirror, then go from wire to wire on the window. If any of the wires other than the ground wires have continuity, there's your problem. Those will be the wires to track to the end. I'd also examine each individual wire where they pass through the door and the body at the hinge side of the door to see if any of it is worn through.
You say the windows work if the mirrors are disconnected, do the mirrors work if the windows are disconnected? Does the mirror switch heat up if the windows are disconnected?
You say the windows work if the mirrors are disconnected, do the mirrors work if the windows are disconnected? Does the mirror switch heat up if the windows are disconnected?