It has been 30 years since I did a brake job on a vehicle, which means I’m 30 years older. My front brakes are grinding so I’m planning on new rotors and pads this weekend. AutoZone? O’Reilly? Those are my choices. Any advice, hints, tips that may help me do the job? I have a big C-clamp, jack stand and should have the tools. I’ve had the truck for 12 years so who knows how old the brakes are.
Thanking you in advance for any help.

 

Some sandpaper probably wouldn't hurt either. Be sure to clean whatever it is the calipers move on as well. Clean 'em, regrease 'em, reinstall 'em. I also use some rattle can disc brake quiet on the backing plates of the pads, so my new brakes don't squeal. Of course, buying a can of the stuff for one brake job really isn't fiscally responsible.... so, if the pads come with some, just use what you get with 'em.

 

I saw a YouTube that used some high temp grease on the guide pins after cleaning them off?

 

Just be careful removing and installing the caliper guide pins. Hopefully they haven't been stripped out in the past.

 

That should work.

 

I'd go ahead and replace the caliper slides and bolts with new ones as well. They come in a kit, not very expensive, just have to ask for them. Those parts are heat cycled repeatedly, and can warp eventually causing the calipers to stick. I've heard recommendations to replace them every other brake job, but I replace them every time just to avoid having to go to the parts store in the middle of a brake job. I've pulled some out that were warped to the point that you have to wonder how the brakes were working at all.

I don't know if Dodge ABS systems are like GM ABS systems, but forcing the caliper piston back in can damage the ABS on a GM by pushing debris into the valving system. The way to prevent this is to crack open the bleeder prior to forcing the caliper back in, and let the fluid in the caliper exit the system through the bleed screw.

And, while you're at this, 20 years is a long time on rubber lines. Might be time to replace them. And, since this means a full fluid flush to get the air out, DOT4 is an excellent upgrade. It gets you about 30 degrees more temperature capacity before fading than DOT3, and doesn't cost any more than DOT3. You'll want to avoid silicone-based fluid, which I think is DOT5, as silicone-based brake fluid will damage a system not built to use it.

 

Aha, okay. All good info to avoid extra trips to the parts store.
Thanks all for the help.

 

We use DOT 5.1 brake fluid in the dragster, it is glycol based like DOT3 and DOT4. DOT 5 is silicone based, not the same as DOT5.1

And if you want to know the temperature rating, let's put it this way. A couple weeks/about a month ago the parachute didn't open and dad got on both sets of brakes (foot+hand; 16 pistons of braking on rear axle only). The other driver said "Damn, I smelled your brakes the whole time and didn't think you were gonna make the turn". Went 186 MPH and got stopped in about 2000 feet. Happened again last weekend on a 230 MPH 1/4 mile pass, chute came out but didn't blossom. Luckily it's a long, uphill shutdown but still had to use both brake systems.

They still work fine. But holy hell did they get a little bit warm.

 

Sounds like my wife going to walmart, When I ask her why she always has to brake so hard, she looks at me and goes, "do you wanna drive then?"

OP: Bosch quietcast and TRW premium ceramic pads from Amazon have served me well. Very quiet and low dust. I also got CRC brake lube
.... Great stuff! It's lasted me years and many brake jobs (see first sentence). Slide pins can usually be cleaned up with steel wool.