I need to change the fan clutch and am unable to remove the big nut holding it to the water pump. I can turn the nut a very small amount CCW and then it locks up TIGHT. I have a spanner holding the pully. I think I will have to change the water pump so I can use the new fan clutch. Seeing as how I am unable to remove the fan clutch I think I need to remove the fan shroud for more room.
Motor is 4.7. There seems to be a ton of videos on everything about the fan clutch and fan but I can't find one on the best way to remove the shroud. Any assistance is appreciated.
Thanks, Tom/Idaho

 

Fan to water pump nuts are not necessarily standard threads. Try turning it in the direction the pulley turns when the engine is running. If the water pump pulley is not allowed to spin, it should come loose this way. You may need a long wrench and a hammer to break it loose. If you already have a new water pump, look at the threads on it and it will tell you if it's standard thread or reverse thread.

 

The shroud is two pieces and the top half simply lifts off the bottom half when you have everything disconnected. The upper part contains the washer fluid tank and coolant overflow. There are two 10mm bolts, one on each side (left and right edge) of the upper shroud, i'm guessing about six inches down. You'll need extensions to reach them.

In total you'll be pulling the two bolts, two electric plugs and two hoses (one to radiator neck and one at bottom of washer fluid pump). Washer fluid will leak out if you don't have a small piece of hose with a clamp on it to stop it off. Lift top half of shroud up and off. Bottom half stays in place.

 

I have a Haynes Repair Manual that pretty well tells one what to do. I am confident I can do that.
Being kinda confined to a wheel chair due to an accident with my previous truck; a Dodge diesel running over me, I am always looking for a short cut or two due to my physical limitations. I tried turning the nut the nut the other way w/o success. I will pick up a new water pump tomorrow. I do have an air hammer and have tried that, also without success. I am thinking that w/o the fan shroud I will at least have more room to try things again.
Thanks for your assistance,
Tom/Idaho

 

64 mm flat wrench for the nut. AutoZone and such will lend or rent the tool.Makes it sooo much easier..........

 

Wish I was closer to lend you a hand, friend. The shroud out the way definitely gives you loads of room. The nut should be lefty loosey. Grab a fan blade or two and wiggle them back or forth. If there is even a slight play, the water pump is worn and worth replacing anyway. Those two bolts holding up the shroud love to fall, so having an extendable magnet is helpful. Water pump bolts are different lengths so make sure you keep track.

 

Thanks to all who offered help.
Removed the shroud & water pump w/fan & clutch still attached.
Put it in a vice and am still unable to remove the nut. Had to use my saws all and cut the nut to be able to use the fan.
Due to my physical limitations I was unable to drain the radiator so I let it drain into a large pan as I unbolted the pump.
I will put it back together tomorrow. Will I need to bleed the system? If so what is the easiest way to do that?
Thanks again to all who responded.
Tom/Idaho

 

Yep, need to bleed it. Not sure how that is managed on the 4.7, never worked on one.

 

The way I always bleed is to get the front higher than the rear - whether that be on ramps, jacked up or steep hill. You can even drive the front up on a curb if that makes it easier. Remove radiator cap and add fluid till near full. Also fill the overflow tank. Turn on vehicle and keep adding till bubbles subside (more or less). At some point it will overflow. Replace cap and go for a drive, getting it full hot. Next time the vehicle is cold, check levels and add again. There is a hex bleed screw/nut near the radiator cap but I've never been able to open mine.

Draining is the opposite. Get the rear higher than the front. I've found easiest way to get to the radiator draincock is to stick my hand through the right hole in the bumper valance.

 

Thanks to all the help I now have a new fan clutch and new water pump. Bleed plug on 4.7 is in the top of the hose between radiator and motor. Says 'BLEED SCREW' right on it.
Be 80 years old come March next year and am sometimes confined to wheel chair. Can use a prosthesis for a right leg but it does have it's limitations. Even though I have a manual it helps to get any 'inside' information before beginning a project.
Thanks again,
Tom/Idaho