When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
. Would it be easier to simply put the distributor back to it's original setting (rotate it back 180 degrees)?
YIKES!
Fuel Sync requires a DRB3 (Dealer tool), Snap-On Modus, or similar tool costing $1500 and up.
Did you move the distributor gear inside the block, or did you only flip the distributor around 180 and drop it back in the slot in the gear? It needs to go back where it was. Being 180 out, that poor PCM must have been so confused.
PS, when you go to start it, don't hold the throttle pedal more than 50%. With most EFI, TPS over (50-75%) when starting is programmed as a "flooded mode" command, and will turn off the fuel injectors to unflood the intake with engine spinning.
Fuel Sync requires a DRB3 (Dealer tool), Snap-On Modus, or similar tool costing $1500 and up.
Did you move the distributor gear inside the block, or did you only flip the distributor around 180 and drop it back in the slot in the gear? It needs to go back where it was. Being 180 out, that poor PCM must have been so confused.
PS, when you go to start it, don't hold the throttle pedal more than 50%. With most EFI, TPS over (50-75%) when starting is programmed as a "flooded mode" command, and will turn off the fuel injectors to unflood the intake with engine spinning.
To clarify, I did not move the gear inside the block (at least not intentionally). When I was trying to drop the distributor back in I was only able to get it in the slot at 180 degrees so I'm hoping that means the gear didn't move.
To clarify, I did not move the gear inside the block (at least not intentionally). When I was trying to drop the distributor back in I was only able to get it in the slot at 180 degrees so I'm hoping that means the gear didn't move.
yea, it's a straight slot in the top of the gear. The gear itself is hard to pull up, it's in a bushing going though the cam valley with a 5/16" hex going into the oil pump. So your only option is straight or backwards.
I re-positioned the distributor back to its original orientation and it fired right up. I'm guessing all I had to replace from the beginning was the ignition coil. At least I got an ignition tune-up out of it and all it cost me was $68 in parts and my sanity for 3 months. Still worth it I'd say. No better feeling than fixing something yourself, small or big. And I'll take this as invaluable learning experience.
But...I'm not sure if I fixed the distributor into place properly. I'm seeing some wobble to it when the truck is running. I tightened the bolt as much as I could. Really hard to reach back there and not much room to get torque. Is some amount of play normal? Is it ok if I leave it like this or should I try to re-seat the little plate that holds it down? I wish I could upload a video I took but I'm only able to attach images.
Another thing is while I was working on the distributor cap and rotor back in January I took off the entire throttle body to clean it, most specifically the IAC valve as I was having idling issues. While taking off the throttle body I accidentally snapped off the vacuum line that attaches in the front next to the MAP sensor. Anyone know what this line is for? Tried to do a search but didn't get a clear answer.
I knew i had a top photo! When positioned correctly, the rotor will line up with a notch in the cam position sensor labeled "Cyl 1" when #1 is at top dead center.
You are correct that tightening the distributor bolt is a pain in the prostate, between the keg intake, the oil pressure sender, and the distributor body. It's a 9/16" hex bolt, and no the distributor should not be able to move. I went with a Mopar performance hold-down bracket instead of the stock one when i built my engine.
I knew i had a top photo! When positioned correctly, the rotor will line up with a notch in the cam position sensor labeled "Cyl 1" when #1 is at top dead center.
You are correct that tightening the distributor bolt is a pain in the prostate, between the keg intake, the oil pressure sender, and the distributor body. It's a 9/16" hex bolt, and no the distributor should not be able to move. I went with a Mopar performance hold-down bracket instead of the stock one when i built my engine.
