I've been having an issue with the truck for some time now. Did my research online and went through diagnosing and replacing parts but still having an issue so I figured to get input for my particular situation.

Back in December I went to turn on my truck. It turned on but hesitated and died immediately. Tried turning it on again but this time it would not start. I'm getting it to crank but it will not start. So far I've done the following:

• Replaced spark plugs and wires
• Replaced distributor cap and rotor
• Re-aligned distributor rotor to point at Cylinder #1 when engine is at TDC

I know I'm getting fuel to the engine. I hear the fuel pump prime when I turn the key to the ON position. I also smell gas after failed start attempts and I removed one of the new spark plugs after installation and it showed signs of fuel. I've also tried spraying starter fluid down the throttle body but that has not worked either.

As for spark, I used a spark tester from Harbor Freight and confirmed that I'm getting spark at the ignition coil. Can I safely assume that both my camshaft and crankshaft position sensors are working?

Anything else I can check for?

 

Are you getting GOOD spark? Have you tried testing for spark at one of the plugs? What plugs did you install? Are they properly gapped?

 

Not sure if it's good spark. How bright is the light supposed to be on the spark tester? I can take a video next time I try it out.

Would I be able to test the metal post on the ignition coil using a multimeter? I've already tested the electrical connector and see it's getting 12V when I crank the engine. This is why I'm assuming the camshaft and crankshaft position sensors are working fine.

I have not tried testing for spark at the plugs. I tested on top of the distributor cap and see that the spark tester light is not as bright as it is on top of the ignition coil. Is this normal or should it be just as bright?

I installed Autolite copper plugs part # 5224. I did not gap them as they were pre-gapped to 0.044". I saw the OEM gap is 0.04". Does that extra 0.004" really make a difference? At most I would have misfires. I would still be able to start the truck no? Correct me if I'm wrong.

 

Coil puts out in the neighborhood of 40,000 volts.... that'll smoke your meter right quick.

For spark testing, I use an old plug, grounded on the engine. (don't hold it with your hand though...... ) Should be a reasonably large yellow spark. Blue is better, but, I rarely see those. Plugs are correct, and gap is ok. I generally check gap anyway, as you don't know what those plugs have been thru in shipping, handling, etc. They may or may not be accurate any more.

 

Ok I will give that a try next time I'm out there (truck died in a relative's' driveway so I don't have access to tinker with it everyday).

If I get all the plugs to spark what would be next? Just so I have something to think about while I wait to get to the truck. Might not be until this weekend. I've been worried this is pointing to a timing issue but I hope it is something as simple as spark related.

 

If you are getting spark at 2 or 3 plugs, that should be adequate to the task for the engine to run. No need to test all of 'em. How old are your plug wires? Distributor cap/rotor??

 

All new. Replaced wires this past weekend with the plugs and distributor cap/rotor about a month ago. Tried the cap and rotor first thinking not all 6 plugs would have gone bad at the same time. That didn't work so I went ahead and replaced plugs and wires as well.

 

Verify that you ARE getting spark at the plugs then. If not, are you getting spark from the coil? Does the fuel pump run while cranking?

 

You're gonna need to get the fuel sync looked at.... these engines will only run if the distributor is within a 20 degree range (+/- 10 degrees) of aligned with the crank position sensor. That doesn't necessarily mean TDC. That also means any stretch in the timing chain and wear of the distributor gear can add up to...not where you think the rotor should actually be pointing.

Verify you're actually getting spark by grounding a spark plug while spinning the engine over with the fuel pump relay pulled so it wont actually start. Once we know there's spark, and you think you smell fuel, then it's just a matter of getting the spark to happen when it needs to.

 

Turns out that I was not getting GOOD spark. I was stopping by my brother-in-law's place yesterday and decided to pick up a new ignition coil from NAPA on my way over to give that a shot. Let me tell you my spark tester looked like the 4th of July with the new coil. The truck still wasn't able to turn on though. I wasn't able to check for spark at the plugs as it was snowing here yesterday and I couldn't be out there too long. But I wish I had known to look for quality of spark at the coil before going ahead with all the repairs. Most specifically, trying to align the distributor rotor to TDC. Speaking of...

...how would I go about looking at fuel sync? Something I can do at home or would I have to take it to a shop? I'm assuming it requires some special scan tools. Would it be easier to simply put the distributor back to it's original setting (rotate it back 180 degrees)?