First Time Buyer (2000-2004 Dakota)
#1
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Hey all, potential first time buyer of a 2000-2004 Dodge Dakota. Have found a few options right around 100K miles which is my soft target (the lower the better without paying a lot). I'm sure there are a bunch of historical threads on things to worry about/look for when buying a used truck. Any thoughts from the rest of the forum would be great.
Any insights on the 2wd vs. 4wd, automatic vs. manual, and any particular year that has had more problems than others? Any areas (frame, engine mounts, etc.) to focus on when buying? Thanks in advance.
Any insights on the 2wd vs. 4wd, automatic vs. manual, and any particular year that has had more problems than others? Any areas (frame, engine mounts, etc.) to focus on when buying? Thanks in advance.
#2
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Hey all, potential first time buyer of a 2000-2004 Dodge Dakota. Have found a few options right around 100K miles which is my soft target (the lower the better without paying a lot). I'm sure there are a bunch of historical threads on things to worry about/look for when buying a used truck. Any thoughts from the rest of the forum would be great.
Any insights on the 2wd vs. 4wd, automatic vs. manual, and any particular year that has had more problems than others? Any areas (frame, engine mounts, etc.) to focus on when buying? Thanks in advance.
Any insights on the 2wd vs. 4wd, automatic vs. manual, and any particular year that has had more problems than others? Any areas (frame, engine mounts, etc.) to focus on when buying? Thanks in advance.
#3
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I actually take something I am considering buying into my local shop, and have it inspected. They will find stuff that I wouldn't even think to look for. Yep, it costs money. (generally, and hour labor... or less) But, it has saved my bacon more than once.
#4
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I'd stick with 2003-2004 because they have rear disk brakes and the larger twin piston front calipers. Otherwise you'll end up with rear drums and weaker + more problematic front calipers. Stay away from 2000. I can't remember all the reasons, but it's a quirky year, from the many threads I've read.
I love a stick, but personally I'd do automatic with these trucks. My 545RFE has been flawless even now at 340K and it will be hard finding a stick anyway. Finding one with a tow package (that hasn't towed all it's life) would be another plus. Tow package comes with HD cooling for engine and trans. Good cooling = longer life. Find something that has had ATF fluid replacements. Stay away from trucks with glazed looking dipsticks. Dipsticks that get checked and wiped don't get glazed and crusty, meaning someone is keeping up with the oil level.
As for 4WD vs 2WD, the latter is less to break and simpler to maintain. If you don't have to deal with snow a lot, I'd go with the 2wd. Bring along a code reader. Gas the truck hard in place (owners won't like this). Lotsa smoke is not a good sign
I love a stick, but personally I'd do automatic with these trucks. My 545RFE has been flawless even now at 340K and it will be hard finding a stick anyway. Finding one with a tow package (that hasn't towed all it's life) would be another plus. Tow package comes with HD cooling for engine and trans. Good cooling = longer life. Find something that has had ATF fluid replacements. Stay away from trucks with glazed looking dipsticks. Dipsticks that get checked and wiped don't get glazed and crusty, meaning someone is keeping up with the oil level.
As for 4WD vs 2WD, the latter is less to break and simpler to maintain. If you don't have to deal with snow a lot, I'd go with the 2wd. Bring along a code reader. Gas the truck hard in place (owners won't like this). Lotsa smoke is not a good sign
Last edited by Dodgevity; 04-03-2023 at 10:18 PM.
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V8Cowboy (04-05-2023)
#6
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I'd stick with 2003-2004 because they have rear disk brakes and the larger twin piston front calipers. Otherwise you'll end up with rear drums and weaker + more problematic front calipers. Stay away from 2000. I can't remember all the reasons, but it's a quirky year, from the many threads I've read.
I love a stick, but personally I'd do automatic with these trucks. My 545RFE has been flawless even now at 340K and it will be hard finding a stick anyway. Finding one with a tow package (that hasn't towed all it's life) would be another plus. Tow package comes with HD cooling for engine and trans. Good cooling = longer life. Find something that has had ATF fluid replacements. Stay away from trucks with glazed looking dipsticks. Dipsticks that get checked and wiped don't get glazed and crusty, meaning someone is keeping up with the oil level.
As for 4WD vs 2WD, the latter is less to break and simpler to maintain. If you don't have to deal with snow a lot, I'd go with the 2wd. Bring along a code reader. Gas the truck hard in place (owners won't like this). Lotsa smoke is not a good sign
I love a stick, but personally I'd do automatic with these trucks. My 545RFE has been flawless even now at 340K and it will be hard finding a stick anyway. Finding one with a tow package (that hasn't towed all it's life) would be another plus. Tow package comes with HD cooling for engine and trans. Good cooling = longer life. Find something that has had ATF fluid replacements. Stay away from trucks with glazed looking dipsticks. Dipsticks that get checked and wiped don't get glazed and crusty, meaning someone is keeping up with the oil level.
As for 4WD vs 2WD, the latter is less to break and simpler to maintain. If you don't have to deal with snow a lot, I'd go with the 2wd. Bring along a code reader. Gas the truck hard in place (owners won't like this). Lotsa smoke is not a good sign
#7
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I did the brake upgrade on my 2002 QC 4wd, I'd advise against the '02 or older and go with the '03/'04. The original brakes sucked and gave me some headaches. The upgrade to the 2003 durango fronts was straight forward and worth the effort on my part. I went with all JY parts (pads & rotors included) to get it all ironed out and now its good to go for a brake job when the time comes.
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steve05ram360 (04-10-2023)