3inch lift front and back axles are binding bad enough I can't drive it I can't find a differential drop kit or any axles that would work to get it out of a bind and the upper ball joints are in a bind any help links or part numbers would be awesome

 

Did you set your pinion angle within specs? More than a couple inches lift will require lengthening drive shaft and correcting pinion angle. I wanted a 4WD lowered Dakota because intent was not off-roading more than just getting off pavement to job sites and having enough clearance for forest service roads. Ended up special ordering a Dakota 4WD on what can best be described as a Durango police interceptor chassis. Sits 1.5" shorter than same year stock 4WD but taller than 2WD. Because Colorado's were only midsize truck when bought my 2022 went to test drive and discovered a Colorado 4WD sits so low it won't clear a 4" L-back curb or parking block without ripping front end up. Again another special order truck and Chevy said could only put 1.5" lift on truck and stay in specs on rest of the drivetrain and suspension.

One of my best friends is a full time truck mechanic with a huge clientale. He has lost hundreds of lift jobs because he has a 2" rule for an "affordable" lift. If someone wants a 4" or taller lift (he would consider 3.5" on mid size truck same way) to be priced in the "Texas Metal" price range to do it right. Basically everything comes out and from driveshafts to wiring harnesses require extending. Engineers set up a truck within parameters that give only so much room for modification without re-engineering.

What kind of lift did you do? Is it a body lift or suspension lift? Sticking blocks or taller springs on back then basically the same on front without modifying the drive line can cause issues like your seeing. Will try to help if give a little more info than 3.5" lift. What type and what was done to drive line components is critical in diagnosing issues. 3.5" should not take too much to get it happy, just some more information will help.

 

Pinion angle is good 3in lift blocks in the rear and torsion bar keys for the front longer travel shocks sits on brand new 35s that's the reason for the lift I can drop the torsion keys down and the vibration goes away so I'm 100% sure it's the axles I also removed all bump stops on the front nobody makes a diff drop kit from what I'm seeing for these trucks anymore and can't find extended travel axles specifically for it

Edit. Upper control arm is at a hell of a angle to any idea on something custom i can order that would need minimal fab work to use would be awesome to i moved the tie rod ends from the bottom to the top of the hub also to get them more parallel

 

There are companies that make high angle cv axles, but, them fellers are not inexpensive....

 

not trying to have them custom made because of that.. if anyone has used two different cv axles to make a high angle CVS for these trucks and remembers what the part numbers are that'd be great

 

I doubt anything stock is going to give you what you need. Drop brackets for the axle itself might be findable..... they made them at one point.... but, given yours is 30 years old.... finding them new ain't real likely.... finding them used would be the wildest stroke of luck.

 

I can make the drop brackets but would rather keep the diff up if possible... I found some aftermarket upper control arms for chevy that look like I could use but would have to fab up brackets to mount them to the frame

 

That still won't solve the axle issues though..... you need either the high angle axles, or, lower the diff.....

 

Any idea of part numbers or links for extended travel CVS for these trucks

Edit.. I can do some fab work to make two different sets work I can cut the flange off my CVS and use any axle as long as the spline count and size is right on the other end I'm building longer upper and lower tube control arms at the moment for it

 

Call TrakMotive and speak with a tech/sales rep. They make a wide range of CV axles many call mid performance as in just a little better than OEM but not going to take big horsepower. Moog tech support may be able to help but I find bigger the company, usually the less their phone people know. I have the ability to go behind the counter at a independent NAPA dealer who also sells Moog and even some Mopar branded items. Have been in business over 100 years and have found Model A parts on their shelves pilfering. If have a OEM CV thats shot out carry it in and start opening boxes till you possibly find a Ram 1500, Durango or even a minivan axle that has correct bolt pattern on differential end, right thread pitch on wheel end but is an inch or so longer.

I have an Evo motor and six speed tranny in a 1973 four speed Harley frame with mix of Knucklehead & Panhead sheet metal with Shovelhead Tourpac. If open enough boxes can make almost anything work. Have put vintage Hemis in A Bodies and all sorts of odd things. Have swapped tailshafts on transmissions so didn't have to pay for a custom driveshaft. Ask questions with manufacturers and a good parts man. Because someone is standing behind a parts counter doesn't make them a parts expert.