Plug in with the scanner, and ignition on, engine off, see what the various sensors are reading, and if it bears any resemblance to current conditions. Coolant temp is right there at the top of the list.

 

Compression test results:

1-115. 2-105
3-108. 4-105
5-120. 6-118
7-100. 8-100

Close to 15% difference.

I also looked at the reading on scanner and everything looked to be the same as ambient temp.

 

Those numbers seem kinda low for a fresh rebuild......

 

I talked to a mechanic I know and he said that the numbers won't be where they should be until I get a few heat cycles and good oil pressure since I had the valve job and new lifters. Everything I have search on the subject also says that compression will be low on fresh rebuild until rings have a chance to seat.

 

There is low, and then there is what you are showing.... 100 PSI is the MINIMUM spec for compression..... your numbers are barely above that. (and some aren't above it....)

Are your plugs getting wet, fouling out??

 

Yes. My plugs are getting wet.

 

So, it's getting gas at least, question becomes, is it getting too much? Usually that's a product of the temp sensor, but, yours seems to be working properly..... What about Intake Air Temp? That one look reasonable as well? What spark plugs are in it??

 

Cheap autolite copper.

 

OK so we are getting somewhere. You've got fuel. You've got air/compression (I agree with your friend on lacking ringseat yet). You "should" have spark - 5to7 volts while cranking on a digital meter is 47-66% duty cycle assuming Vbatt is 10.5 volts. I would expect closer to 12% duty cycle.
Coils should be hot at all times, ground should only be present for a very short amount of time to fire the coil before starting the re-charge process.

Fuel Injector hot-side comes from PDC-C106 via Splice 187
Ignition coil hot-side comes from PDC-C106 via Splice 187

Since we know you have fuel, we know you also have hot coils. We can only assume the PCM is grounding them to fire. Unfortunately it's hard to test a COP coil because you can't just hold the spark plug against something metal and tell somebody to turn the key. [Note: You can, but wear gloves. Ideally you want to use a spark plug tester that encapsulates the spark for safety]

So next question - Did you reconnect the ground strap on the back of both heads?

With the scanner connected and cranking, can you see the cam/crankshaft counts increasing? Can you get to the test screen and manually fire the coils?

 

I want to start with saying that you guys are amazing for taking the time to help me and others with these issues. It is greatly appreciated.
I did reconnect grounds to the heads. Also the grounds to the passenger front/lower block. I am also contemplating adding additional grounds just to eliminate that possibility. I will run the tests on the scanner you mentioned in the morning. Work gets in the way of my tinkering.
Thanks again for the help. You are saving me from just lighting a match and walking away.