2004 Dodge Dakota, 3.7L Engine with 42RLE transmission. New to me.

I'm getting ready to crack the transmission pan and change the filter/fluid. It all looks really straightforward and easy except I'm a little unclear on how to seat the new O-ring on the filter. Do you put the new O-Ring on the filter or on the transmission first? Any other general tips for this job that I should know?

Also wondering if I need limited slip additive for my rear (4x2) differential. It's the 8.25 version but my build sheet doesn't mention if it's limited slip or not. I'm guessing not but I want to be 100% sure. Also, does the rear diff use a gasket or RTV? I can't find one and google is being surprisingly unhelpful.

Thank you!

 

Put the o-ring on the filter. Make sure the old one comes out when you pull the filter. They like to stay in there, and cause you problems.

If it isn't mentioned, you likely don't have one then. You can get your build sheet from here, to know for sure. (all caps please, it IS case-sensitive) As for the friction modifier, you likely don't need it, but, it won't hurt anything if it is already in the fluid.

There is probably a gasket available.... in varying flavors and price levels. I always just used RTV.

 

thanks! My build sheet says:


3.55 REAR AXLE RATIO
CORPORATE 8.25 REAR AXLE


Any idea what the corporate means? Guessing it doesn’t mean limited slip but I have no idea…

 

Just means it was made by Chrysler. They also used Dana axles in a LOT of trucks.

 

Hello again. I got this job done, but I realized that I possibly might have screwed something up. There is a tiny dimple on the transmission pan magnet, like a little bit smaller than a pencil eraser. Does that suggest that the orientation of the pan magnet (up or down) on the pan matters? I can't imagine that it matters since it sticks fine to the pan either way, but I don't know why else it would have a dimple. Thank you!





Here's an image I found online that illustrates what I'm talking about.

 

Doesn't matter.

 

I'm back to beg for help after getting some transmission codes. I drove it for about 350 miles after changing the transmission fluid and filter, zero problems. Used a Mopar filter and Valvoline ATF+4. All of a sudden it is running rough and has these codes.

P0700 & P1776 & P0706

Which of the following do you think caused it? I'm very confident that the fluid level is set correctly, so it's unlikely to be that.

• I saw another thread which states that you can get the filter gasket stuck on the filter neck and have it not seal on the valve body correctly. Could I have messed up the filter installation?
• Maybe the solenoid reported by those codes didn't like the new fluid and is actually dead. The old fluid was very clean, this transmission was taken care of properly by my neighbor who sold me the car.
• I have a 7 year old battery. The voltage is fine, but I've heard it can cause transmission problems in rare instances.

 

Update: popped the battery off, cleaned the terminals (very dirty despite me cleaning them recently) which got rid of the code and limp mode, but im not sure if I just reset the code or actually fixed anything. I drove 20 miles to get a new battery and its shifting fine, but seems underpowered.

 

Disconnecting the battery will reset codes, and also the pcm will forget everything it ever knew about how you drive.... so, the computer needs to relearn, and that takes some time. If you are positive the trans is shifting properly, just give it some time, see what happens.... go from there.

 

Usually if the o ring on the filter is not in place you will just not get any movement. Sometimes when you change the fluid you will knock small debris free. These often get caught in the solenoids and valve body. If its shifting fine then I would just keep driving. The solenoid might have caught some sludge and thrown the code but then chewed through it and is fine now. Both codes are related to electrical so if you had low voltage I would check that first.