50 low and 150 high, which he has posted, are within range for a running compressor on R134 depending on ambient temp.

 

He also has voltage across the switches, yet the compressor still doesn't run...... (that is, if I am remembering the right thread..... )

The compressor relay is controlled by the PCM, it *should* trigger the relay if it is getting a signal from the pressure switches...... Probably making sure it IS GETTING that signal wouldn't be a bad idea either. (testing for voltage AT the PCM.... on the signal wire.)

 

Clutches can and do fail.
Is the gap correct?
He has voltage but does he have a good ground at the clutch?

 

I wonder if the safety switch might have died.

 

Which safety switch?

 

I replaced the orifice tube n yesssss it was a pain to get out. I noticed the 97’ the orifice tube is in the condenser n not in the line under the air box so it confused me for a sec. I returned the new week old compressor n got another new one and replaced both the pressure switches. I even tried putting the old switches back.

 

The one on the side of the receiver/dryer unit. I jump those with mechanics wire to make sure they aren't the problem.

 

Yeah, that's the low pressure switch. I *think* he has already verified those are working properly, yet the compressor still disengages.

 

Yes i got new switches and i checked got power to both and even swap around the relay with the fuel pump one, i even just tried putting the olds ones in and still doing the same thing. I dont want to get a new new condenser until i can prove that there a blockages in it. And idk if theis helps but i removed the orifice tube out the line under the air box and put it in the condenser like the 97’ years are. And same thing. When i was trying put froen in it it didnt want to take it bc tbe compressor wasnt staying on but when the truck is off then it took the can. Then i started it and added another can n it took that one.

 

What year is your truck?