so my truck failed the e-test today and it said there was too much unbunrt fuel. so I'm bought plugs, cap and rotor. gonna install them tomorrow. is there anything else I should look for or change? i bought ngk v-power plugs. my truck has 203000kms on it. I never would have thought it would fail. but then I havent really did a tune-up on it in 2 years. any help would be apreciated.

also should I try running premium gas in it. some poeple say it will make it better.
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******* Pornstar

 

yes, go get a can of CRC electronic parts cleaner and yank your o2 sensors and clean the elements real good. if your air filter is old, swap it out as well. then before you go back for a re-test, if you can take your truck to a muffler shop and have them do a temp test on the cat. if they cant do a temp test, take it somewhere else. if the input is hotter than the output, its plugged or partially plugged. if it's equal to the output then it's dead. if its hotter on the output then the input its working right. anything other than this means you should swap it.

right before you go to get it tested, take it out on the freeway for 10~15 minutes or so to get the cat good & hot. then go get it tested. once the cat is heat soaked it'll take time for it to cool down so while your waiting it will still be hot and effecient.

 

I just got a full magnaflow exhaust last year, including a magnaflow highflow cat. im gonna do an oil change too cause in 1000 kms im gonna need one anyway. and I took her out for 1/2 hour this moring on the highway cause i know the cat works best when it's hot. and as soon as I got there they took it in. is there any additives I should try? or maybe just do the tune-up and see if that helps and if not then go with an additive?
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HotBellaXXX

 

do the suggestions I made before you go back. one additive trick I was told (no 1st hand experience on this one) was to add fuel injector cleaner to about 10 gallons of fuel, then add an octane booster. supposedly it will help burn the intake charge better. i would wait until your done with the oil change (mobil 1) and swap the air filter (does help believe it or not) and clean the o2's.

 

ok i'll try that. it goes in wed for another test, so i'll let you know how it makes out. thanks for the info.
________
LovelyWendie

 

cool, good luck with it. I'd still check the cat before you go in. I've seen a difference of 10 deg on a input vs output (hotter side) and the cat still worked well enough to pass emissions.

 

ok, I stayed up till 4:00am doin a tune-up on my truck. I changed the oil, air filter, plugs, cap, rotor. and I took it in for the e-test this morning and it failed even worse. this weekend I'm gonna try and clean the O2 sensors and see if that helps.
________
Pregnant interracial

 

did you test the cat?
why didnt you clean the o2's? IIRC you only need to clean 1, the front 1.
What about the fuel additiives?
did you add them before going in for testing and drive enough to let them work at least a little?

there is nothing mechanical on your motor except the cat that would cause it to fail... you have no egr system, air pump etc. so as long as you have clean injectors, good combustion (and a clean combustion chamber), good working o2's (cleaned or replaced) and a functional cat you should pass.

what were the numbers?

 

when I changed the plugs the old ones where white. it was the origional cap/rotor and they were really coroded. I never had time to clean the o2 sensor cause I know it will be a PITA to do, so I guess I will be attempting it this weekend. I never did get the cat tested. im thinking I should now. I never did put any fuel additives in it either. it ran soo much better after the tune-up I thought it would pass. but I guess not.[:@]




here is the limits.


40km _____________________ curb idle
limit reading result ______ limit reading result
HC ppm 50 53 fail ______ 150 34 pass
co% .28 .03 pass ______ .07 .00 pass
NO ppm 548 586 fail ______ - - -

Rpm 1434 valid _____ Rpm 649 valid
Dilution 14.23 valid _____ Dilution 12.20 valid

40km ________________ curb idle
limit reading result__________ limit reading result

HC ppm 50 58 fail ________ 150 37 pass
co% .28 .04 pass ________ .07 .00 pass
NO ppm 548 589 fail _________ - - - -

Rpm 1923 valid _________ Rpm 862 valid
Dilution 14.24 valid __________ Dilution 13.30 valid


sorry for the diagram it's all messed up...


I think it has something to do with the rpms too cause on the first one it's reving alot lower and ont the second one it's revving alot higher. and on both times the egine was nice and hot.










________
Side effects of nexium

 

your cat looks like it's working ok... your hydrocarbons, are they within the limits (hard to tell)

do this....

yank the o2's and either clean them real good or swap the front one(s) out. on a 99 it should be a piece of cake since you only have 1 cat. 2000's and up have 3 cats. (from what i've seen to date).

get a can of sea foam or mopar combustion chamber cleaner and with the motor idling, use one of the vacuum lines to suck in about 1/2~3/4 of the can of sea foam, once it's in there... (it'll suck it down quick so you need to make sure it draws it in kinda evenly, too fast and it'll kill the motor) once it's in there, let it soak for about 15~20 minutes then fire it up. there will be white smoke coming out the tail pipe. lots of smoke means lots of carbon buildup. this is normal. you can take it out for a spin if you want to fumigate the neighborhood... there should be no problem. once the smoke clears, get the bk44 fuel injector cleaner or Techron injector cleaner and add it to about 10 gallons of fuel (1/2 a tank) and take it for a good long spin. let this all burn off, about 150 miles or so and let it do it's thing BEFORE you go and re-test it.

I'm almost 100% sure your motor will pass. the NO #'s you have up there (again hard to read) look high for both low & high rpms. I did the chamber cleaning, o2 cleaning & new plugs on my last gasser before I sold it and it worked like a champ.