DIY 2nd Gen Dak Transfer Case Swap (preliminary)
#1
10-19-2007, 05:14 PM
DIY 2nd Gen Dak Transfer Case Swap (preliminary)
DIY 2nd Gen Dak Transfer Case Swap
This DIY was done on a 2000 QC 4x4 Dakota which has an NV 242D transfer case. Should also apply to all 2nd gen Dakota's and most likely the 1st Gen Durango's as I think they have the same setup.
The previous owner (I just picked this truck up as a fixer) had 255-70-15's on it all the way around and had a flat. Proceeded to put his 31" spare on and attempt to drive off into the sunset... literally...
he was driving west in the afternoon. hahaha. Well AWD transfer cases dont like mixed sized tires very well and he proceeded to eat up his transfer case. When it failed it pushed all the power to the front
differential and it too over heated as he was on dry pavement. The end result was gear oil in the overflow vent tube and into the engine compartment. Stinks big time btw. So my son (Bud91gmc350) & I
worked on this together. this was his 1st TC swap.
Tools needed...
1/2 drive socket set, torque wrench, breaker bar
3/8 drive socket set
10mm allen socket for the drain plug on the transfer case
9/16 chevy distributor wrench (it is pictured in this DIY)
Floor jack, 3 jack stands or 2 jackstands and a damn solid piece of wood to support the tranny.
Suggest keeping all bolts with the parts that are removed... eases the reassembly process.
Jack up the front of the truck and secure with jackstands
TC_install003Small.jpg
Mark the current mounting locations with a sharpie and remove the front drive shaft (pics coming later today as we yanked ours before shooting pics)
TC_install003Small.jpg
Remove the Skid plate if it has one.
TC_install004Small.jpg
Remove the drain plug and drian ATF into drain pan. Once drained, re-install plug.
TC_install005Small.jpg
Remove 2 bolts (14 or 15mm) holding the exhaust support bracket or remove it after the cross memeber is removed (see below)
TC_install006Small.jpg
Support the transfer case with floor jack
TC_install007Small.jpg
Loosen 4 bolts on each side that are holding the transmission cross member to the frame.
TC_install008Small.jpg
Loosen 4 nuts that connect the cross member to the transmission mount.
TC_install009Small.jpg
Support the transmission with a jackstand and a 2x4 going across the tranny pan (distrubutes the load across the pan), the jack will have the weight of the tranny & tc on it right now so just put the setup under the tranny.
TC_install011Small.jpg
Remove the inner bolts on both sides of the cross memeber, lift the jack slighly so you see a gap between the tranny mount & the cross memeber. this will take all the pressure off the cross memeber to ease removal
TC_install012Small.jpg
Remove the cross member.
TC_install013Small.jpg
Remove the exhaust mounting bracket
TC_install014Small.jpg
TC_install017Small.jpg
TC_install016Small.jpg
Unbolt the rear drive shaft from the rear axle but do not remove from transfer case. otherwise you will have oil to clean up.
TC_install018Small.jpg
Remove the transmission mount, there are 2 brackets bolted together here so you'll have to take the lower one off 1st, then the upper. I suggest marking them both before removing them so you know which direction they went in.
TC_install019Small.jpg
TC_install020Small.jpg
TC_install021Small.jpg
Now the fun begins... See the nuts up there were the wrench is? no? yeah I know it sucks. they are there and there are 6 of them, 2 on the top, bottom & sides.
TC_install022Small.jpg
The bottoms come out pretty easily and the drivers side also is easy. the passenger side and top ones are/were difficult but since I've figured out the best way to get them out, it'll be easy for you. All the nuts are 9/16th's or 14mm On the passenger side of the t-case I used the open end wrench pictured. For the 2 top nuts, I used the chevy distributor wrench also in the picture. If you buy these, make sure you get good ones as you dont want to strip any of the nuts with cheep wrenches. you will have to drop the tranny & transfer case down some to allow you to get your hands up there to access the bolts. make sure you dont drop the rear of the tranny too far as you may damage an engine mount. they are being tweeked right now so use caution.
TC_install023Small.jpg
Place a drain pan under the rear tail housing of the t-case and remove the drive shaft. you will get some fluid draining out but it will be minimal.
TC_install024Small.jpg
Remove the electrical connector from the drivers side
(pic coming)
Remove the shift linkage. mine had a rubber grommit holding it in place so it just popped out.
(pic coming)
Remove the vent tube from the top of the t-case, the clamp opens up with pliers so you can slide it up the vent tube.
Next you will have to slide the t-case back to remove it off the input shaft and the studs. This case weighs about 100 lbs so use caution. we had the jack under there and tried to lower it but it was too unstable. I ended up sliding under it and lowering it by hand. (not recommended for the weak).
TC_install025Small.jpg
The install process is the reverse of removal.
When installing the t-case, put it into a drive gear so that you can turn the output shaft to align the input shaft with the output shaft of the tranny.
It took us about 2.5~3.0 hours to get it out (stopping for picturs)and about 1 hour to put it back in. the key here is to use the distributor wrench for the top bolts. had I know that prior, it would have come out alot quicker.
(this part is pending... havent quite finished yet)
Once everything is back together, fill the T-Case with Mopar ATF-4 fluid, fire it up and put the e-brake on.
Shift into neutral and put the t-case into 4lo. put your foot on the brake and relase the e-brake, shift the tranny into drive and verify forward movement. Repeat this for the other t-case modes. Once verified, your all done.
This DIY was done on a 2000 QC 4x4 Dakota which has an NV 242D transfer case. Should also apply to all 2nd gen Dakota's and most likely the 1st Gen Durango's as I think they have the same setup.
The previous owner (I just picked this truck up as a fixer) had 255-70-15's on it all the way around and had a flat. Proceeded to put his 31" spare on and attempt to drive off into the sunset... literally...
he was driving west in the afternoon. hahaha. Well AWD transfer cases dont like mixed sized tires very well and he proceeded to eat up his transfer case. When it failed it pushed all the power to the front
differential and it too over heated as he was on dry pavement. The end result was gear oil in the overflow vent tube and into the engine compartment. Stinks big time btw. So my son (Bud91gmc350) & I
worked on this together. this was his 1st TC swap.
Tools needed...
1/2 drive socket set, torque wrench, breaker bar
3/8 drive socket set
10mm allen socket for the drain plug on the transfer case
9/16 chevy distributor wrench (it is pictured in this DIY)
Floor jack, 3 jack stands or 2 jackstands and a damn solid piece of wood to support the tranny.
Suggest keeping all bolts with the parts that are removed... eases the reassembly process.
Jack up the front of the truck and secure with jackstands
TC_install003Small.jpg
Mark the current mounting locations with a sharpie and remove the front drive shaft (pics coming later today as we yanked ours before shooting pics)
TC_install003Small.jpg
Remove the Skid plate if it has one.
TC_install004Small.jpg
Remove the drain plug and drian ATF into drain pan. Once drained, re-install plug.
TC_install005Small.jpg
Remove 2 bolts (14 or 15mm) holding the exhaust support bracket or remove it after the cross memeber is removed (see below)
TC_install006Small.jpg
Support the transfer case with floor jack
TC_install007Small.jpg
Loosen 4 bolts on each side that are holding the transmission cross member to the frame.
TC_install008Small.jpg
Loosen 4 nuts that connect the cross member to the transmission mount.
TC_install009Small.jpg
Support the transmission with a jackstand and a 2x4 going across the tranny pan (distrubutes the load across the pan), the jack will have the weight of the tranny & tc on it right now so just put the setup under the tranny.
TC_install011Small.jpg
Remove the inner bolts on both sides of the cross memeber, lift the jack slighly so you see a gap between the tranny mount & the cross memeber. this will take all the pressure off the cross memeber to ease removal
TC_install012Small.jpg
Remove the cross member.
TC_install013Small.jpg
Remove the exhaust mounting bracket
TC_install014Small.jpg
TC_install017Small.jpg
TC_install016Small.jpg
Unbolt the rear drive shaft from the rear axle but do not remove from transfer case. otherwise you will have oil to clean up.
TC_install018Small.jpg
Remove the transmission mount, there are 2 brackets bolted together here so you'll have to take the lower one off 1st, then the upper. I suggest marking them both before removing them so you know which direction they went in.
TC_install019Small.jpg
TC_install020Small.jpg
TC_install021Small.jpg
Now the fun begins... See the nuts up there were the wrench is? no? yeah I know it sucks. they are there and there are 6 of them, 2 on the top, bottom & sides.
TC_install022Small.jpg
The bottoms come out pretty easily and the drivers side also is easy. the passenger side and top ones are/were difficult but since I've figured out the best way to get them out, it'll be easy for you. All the nuts are 9/16th's or 14mm On the passenger side of the t-case I used the open end wrench pictured. For the 2 top nuts, I used the chevy distributor wrench also in the picture. If you buy these, make sure you get good ones as you dont want to strip any of the nuts with cheep wrenches. you will have to drop the tranny & transfer case down some to allow you to get your hands up there to access the bolts. make sure you dont drop the rear of the tranny too far as you may damage an engine mount. they are being tweeked right now so use caution.
TC_install023Small.jpg
Place a drain pan under the rear tail housing of the t-case and remove the drive shaft. you will get some fluid draining out but it will be minimal.
TC_install024Small.jpg
Remove the electrical connector from the drivers side
(pic coming)
Remove the shift linkage. mine had a rubber grommit holding it in place so it just popped out.
(pic coming)
Remove the vent tube from the top of the t-case, the clamp opens up with pliers so you can slide it up the vent tube.
Next you will have to slide the t-case back to remove it off the input shaft and the studs. This case weighs about 100 lbs so use caution. we had the jack under there and tried to lower it but it was too unstable. I ended up sliding under it and lowering it by hand. (not recommended for the weak).
TC_install025Small.jpg
The install process is the reverse of removal.
When installing the t-case, put it into a drive gear so that you can turn the output shaft to align the input shaft with the output shaft of the tranny.
It took us about 2.5~3.0 hours to get it out (stopping for picturs)and about 1 hour to put it back in. the key here is to use the distributor wrench for the top bolts. had I know that prior, it would have come out alot quicker.
(this part is pending... havent quite finished yet)
Once everything is back together, fill the T-Case with Mopar ATF-4 fluid, fire it up and put the e-brake on.
Shift into neutral and put the t-case into 4lo. put your foot on the brake and relase the e-brake, shift the tranny into drive and verify forward movement. Repeat this for the other t-case modes. Once verified, your all done.
#2
10-19-2007, 06:28 PM
#3
10-19-2007, 08:10 PM
#5
10-19-2007, 10:58 PM
RE: DIY 2nd Gen Dak Transfer Case Swap (preliminary)
IDK yet... I could see it coming off the cross brace, left a puddle about the size of a grapefruit. at first glance it looked like it may have been coming from the case halfs. there is also a constant drip of water coming from under the motor... clear water looks like from the a/c
#6
10-20-2007, 03:12 AM
#7
10-20-2007, 03:55 AM
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#8
10-20-2007, 05:44 AM
#9
01-01-2008, 08:26 AM
RE: DIY 2nd Gen Dak Transfer Case Swap (preliminary)
I had to change the t-case input seal and tranny output seal because of a leak between the cases. It will come out of a little slot at the bottom of the cases. On my 99 Durango, there was metal bracket on the upper passenger side nut that made it all but impossible to get it a wrench on it.
Another great way to get that nut off is to use a 14mm, 1/4 inch drive flex socket (the kind with the u-joint built into it) available separately from sears for not too much $$. I used the following set up: 14mm flex socket, 3 inch 1/4 extension, 1/4 to 3/8 adapter, 3/8 u-joint, about 20 inches of 3/8 extensions to ratchet. Thread this set up in from under the engine, place the socket on the nut and support the 3/8 u-joint with your left hand while turning the ratchet with your right. This may sound more complicated than it is-- It made it really easy to remove the nut without having to keep repositioning a distributor wrench on it.
Another great way to get that nut off is to use a 14mm, 1/4 inch drive flex socket (the kind with the u-joint built into it) available separately from sears for not too much $$. I used the following set up: 14mm flex socket, 3 inch 1/4 extension, 1/4 to 3/8 adapter, 3/8 u-joint, about 20 inches of 3/8 extensions to ratchet. Thread this set up in from under the engine, place the socket on the nut and support the 3/8 u-joint with your left hand while turning the ratchet with your right. This may sound more complicated than it is-- It made it really easy to remove the nut without having to keep repositioning a distributor wrench on it.
#10
01-01-2008, 10:20 AM