2000 Dakota Sport 4L air conditioning quit
#1
2000 Dakota Sport 4L air conditioning quit
Of course, it had to wait for the hottest week of the year! Friday my AC was working, Saturday it was blowing hot air. I checked the fuse inside the Cab and it was good. Is there a relay I need to look for under the hood or is there a clutch to replace on the compressor or do I need to replace the entire compressor? I know nothing about air conditioning except that it was working fine on Friday. I have had a bearing type of chatter coming from the engine right after I start it up but goes away in five or 10 minutes. Hoping there is some sort of repair I can do but maybe not. Thanks in advance!
#2
#3
I will try to locate a pressure gauge to test both high and low pressures. I have a bottle of that do it your self refrigerant. Would it help for me to attempt to pump some in?
Also, the pulley does not engage when I turn the AC on from inside. Would that be normal with low pressure? Thank you for your help!
Also, the pulley does not engage when I turn the AC on from inside. Would that be normal with low pressure? Thank you for your help!
#4
Probably low or out of gas. Like suggested, gauges first before you fill. Mine developed a leak several years ago on a low pressure fabric reinforced line leaning against the air box where the filter is housed. I'm not sure if yours is arranged this way, mine is a six 3.9L. however, check these fabric lines for oil as this is a sign. Again after being in the business of refrigeration for my life time please use gauges as to not put any of this refrigerant into the atmosphere. Please get help from a qualified person as this system can be compromised and ruined very easily. The system is an open system cause the seals on the compressor sometimes are a problem as they get old and dry out, gas then escapes. Leak checking should be the very first thing to look at. If there is any pressure in the system a good electronic or ultrasonic testor will find it. The centrifugal clutch will not engage if the pressure isn't high enough on the low side.
#5
The clutch will not engage if the pressure is too low. It protects the compressor from damage.
Before you do anything, check the pressures.
Be VERY careful with those DIY cans. Many of them contain a leak sealer. Once you put that in, it becomes VERY expensive to repair the system as most shops won't touch it.
Before you do anything, check the pressures.
Be VERY careful with those DIY cans. Many of them contain a leak sealer. Once you put that in, it becomes VERY expensive to repair the system as most shops won't touch it.
#7
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#8
Its hard to find Regular 134A, that ultra cold and freeze your nipples off in under 3 seconds products are not only massively over priced they all have the magically solve your leak snake oil that clogs up not only holes but your system, Its a band aid at best. Aside from my fairytale rant, cheapest places that sell just regular 134a without all the sanke oil, Home Depot actually has the best price that i can find IDQ Brand @ $6.97 12oz, WalFart Speedsteed brand is $6.88 12oz according to their site but last i was there it was $9.99
#9
If your going to buy a gauge set I recommend this set around $120 to $160 http://www.autotoolworld.com/product...FRNrfgodqkYJhQ
Very nice set and quality also I use them they are part of my tool set now for AZ heat.
I say start with just one of those cheap one can filler kits just to see if it will start up then use the gauge set as the rest said.
I forgot check your local auto parts store some rent the gauge set out.
Last edited by 98DAKAZ; 07-13-2015 at 10:03 AM.
#10
If your going to buy a gauge set I recommend this set around $120 to $160 http://www.autotoolworld.com/product...FRNrfgodqkYJhQ
Very nice set and quality also I use them they are part of my tool set now for AZ heat.
I say start with just one of those cheap one can filler kits just to see if it will start up then use the gauge set as the rest said.
I forgot check your local auto parts store some rent the gauge set out.