Hello everyone this is my first post. I own a 2000 Dodge Dakota 3.9LTR 2wd Automatic SLT Club Cab and my electrical is going haywire.
Here are my issues: ABS Light on, Brake Light on, Engine light on (abs speed sensor), Blower Motor not working, power windows (both) not working, speedo not working, and shifting terrible.
I know this is a common problem and has been asked multiple times on this forum but no matter what I try I can't find the issue.
All these issues started at the exact same time.

I've replaced the ign switch.
Checked for loose and fried wires NONE!
Tested all fuses in engine bay all are good.
Checked wiring under Fuse Box in engine bay all good.
Tested rear abs sensor and it seems fine.
Checked most relays and they look good.
Checked all ground wires I could locate and there good, no corrosion.
Replaced Circuit breaker in dash fuse box.

The only thing that was wonky in all my testing was the Dash Fuse Box. The #2 15a BACK-UP LP/DRL2,#3 10a ABS/RWAL,#5 5a PANEL DIM,#7 15a REAR DEFOG/FRT BLOWER all have no power either in the on position or full start.
(correction) I'm recieving about 1.6 volts from #2, #3, #7.

I realize the power issue in the dash fuse box is the likely cause and/or the only real issue I've found but where and what would cause that or all this. Man this is driving my nuts.
Any help and trouble shooting will be greatly appreciated, Thanks.

(EDIT) I have no power to Dash Fuse Box Circuit breaker.

 

Welcome to the forum.

Do you have 12 volts to fuse #9, 40 amp, in the power distribution center (PDC) under the hood? That fuse feeds the junction block (JB) or dash fuse box circuits #2, 3, 7, etc., through the ignition switch.

If you do have 12 volts at the fuse, do you have 12 volts at pin 4 on the ignition switch, it's a 12 gauge, black with pink stripe - this is the input to the ignition switch.

You should also have 12 volts at pin 5 on the ignition switch? It's a 12 gauge, black with orange stripe - this is the output.

Between the PDC and the JB is a big connector, C200. It's under the dash right above the brake pedal. Check the connections carefully.

 

I just checked

#9 40 amp fuse is good has power and fuse has continuity

pin 4 black and pink has 11.7 volts through it

pin 5 black and orange has no voltage

Is the C 200 your refering to the connector with the 10mm bolt in it if so I looked over the wiring and it seems fine but I'll check in more detail tomorrow if you feel it necessary.

Also am I wrong in thinking that some pins on the switch get there voltage from the switch itself. Meaning from the red (hot) wire.

by the way thanks

 

There is more than one circuit in the ignition switch. Yes, the red wire feeds SOME of them, pins 1, 2, and 6.

Pin 5 feeds the circuits that aren't working. You should have power at pin 5 with the ignition switch in RUN - that's where I'd be looking.

C200 is the connector you describe. If you have power to pin 4 it probably is OK.

 

Both pin 4 and pin 5 at run and full start have 0.8 volts. Also when I push the window switch the voltage drops to about 0.4 on both.

Is there any way anyone can tell me exactly were the pin 4 and pin 5 wire trace to. meaning if I follow both wires were will it end exactly.

 

UPDATE:
I recently found that the circuit breaker in my Dash Fuse Box #20 wasn't getting power SO what I did was used a jump wire from the positive of #21 to the positive of #20 (fused of course) and TADA all lights went away, windows worked, blower motor worked, and my anxiety disappeared for a millisecond. I un-jumped it, frowned, and started writing to the forum asap. I only jumped it long enough to roll up the windows to make sure I didn't do any damage though.
So were does this lead me hmmm....
If anyone has any idea what harness connects to that specific socket (#20) and where that leads please let me know.

I was thinking maybe it could be the dash fuse connection itself but would that explain the readings I'm having at the switch, I have no idea at this point. My brain is so spent right now.

 

You said earlier that you had 11.7 volts on pin #4 of the ignition switch. Now you don't? That's the input side of the ignition switch.

From the PDC fuse #9, power goes IN pin 4 of the ignition switch then OUT pin 5, then passes through C200 to the JB and feeds fuses 2, 3, 7, etc.

That's it.

 

NO KEY IN IGNITION:
I'm getting 11.7 volts at pin 4 pnk/blk

0 volts on pin 5 blk/org

KEY AT ON/RUN POSITION:
I'm getting voltage drop on pin 4 pnk/blk at about 0.8 volts which in turn sends that 0.8 volts to pin 5.
Also seeing that same voltage drop on pin 25 pnk/blk at C200

FUSE #9:
Seeing over 12 volts with no voltage drop at all in on/run position

I have continuity in the cab of the truck to all wires and pins but from pin 25(pnk/blk) on the back end of c200 and to the PDC fuse #9 pnk/blk wire I can't see continuity.

I also learned that the pnk/blk wire splits after C200 to the Fuse #9 and also the starter relay.

 

My 01 doesn't show a #20 CB (only 28 and 29) so i guess things got changed between years.

My only suggestion is to pop the dash bezel out and peek in where the headlight controller is, see if you can see any connectors pushed out on the back of the junction block. There's like 8 or 10 or 12 different connectors shoved in the back, all are color coded.