Alright Gents, brand new to this site - I wish I had known about this years ago - really a wealth of knowledge on here.
Here is a run down on the vehicle - 2007 Dodge Durango Limited, 5.7 Hemi, 4x4 AWD, 56,000 miles on it. The only modification it has had is a K&N filter with cold air intake kit that was installed at 25k miles.

Never had any problems out of it until a few days ago - just flat out wouldn't start -just a click click sound. Jumped it, fired up, ran fine. Thought maybe the battery was bad but only 3 years old?? My trusty 1992 Dakota's OEM battery lasted 9 years (yes I got lucky) and in my 2004 2500 Diesel we just replaced those batteries this past winter.
Next day no dice, wont start - jump it again and the bad thing here is I was about to drive 1200 miles from WI back to NC. Swing by Autozone before leaving town & the guy load tests the batt & alt with his digital meter - both test out fine? I ask him to use the analog meter just to be sure (at which time the 20 yearold looks at me crazy) We test both batt & alt with analog meter - both test out good. He hooks the scan tool up under the dash to read code for the engine light - it shows "P0562 Charging Sys Voltage Too Low". And the "possible causes" were all the components that tested good? I drive all the way home over a two day period the next day the vehicle starts right up, engine light goes off...my wife with her best mechanic tone says "hmm it must have fixed itself" Ahhh no, not usualy the way it works honey... The next day dead again, wont start just click, click noise. I put a muti-meter on the battery - 12.7v ?? Then 10min later out of pure curiosity about the amps put a brand new batt in the was only 12.3v and the thing fires right up with the lower voltage battery AND the engine light went off again??
My question here is could the OEM battery have just lost Amperage / CCA but is maintaining the voltage? If so why do I get a charging system voltage low reading code then? Just sticky broke and confused here - never had this happen and am wondering if anyone else has seen this? Can't get it into the dealer until next week and they are often shady at best (last time they tried to sell my wife on buying one, yes one 42$ headlight bulb to pass state inspection - negative ghost rider I'll do both at the house myself for a 20 spot & pick up some beer on the way home with the left over cash). I am a mechanic myself but 2&4 stroke dirtbike, atv, snowmobile, pwc, etc -I.E. everything I work on has handle bars. By far not a duty expert on cars/trucks but know a little more than the average guy I guess by default. Just in need of some Dodge goo roo knowledge here - it's getting irritating & she wont go anywhere without jumper cables now - LOL

*Also I noticed when it won't start the interior lights, headlights, etc still all come on and are not dim at all like if the battery was low.

 

THere was a recall on the 2005 instrument cluster although you a a 2007. It looks as if you have a parasitic draw on the voltage regulator,
FF

 

You have a bad battery. Failing under load. That is why it tests fine at voltage but falls flat when needing to work **sometimes**. Even brand new can do this.

Why the bat went bad? Could be FFs diag above. Get a new bat, make sure the recall was done (for your safety... it is actually related to console FIRES from always on voltage to wires that fail over time.)

IndyDurango

 

Indy - got a new batt in it and going on two days without any phone calls from a pissed off wife who's Durango won't start. So all is good so far.

Parasitic drain on the voltage regulator? How would I go about testing for this?

 

My gfs 06 durango looks like it's having the same problem. checked the voltage and it's showing 11.27V. Also checked it while trying to crank and it only drops to 9.3V which still should be good enough to start. When starting it just clicks, but the weird thing is that the display blinks. Jumping it works every time. That tells me it's possible the ECM isn't getting to low of power and it keeps cycling the ECM on and off. I've also noticed the relay for the starter appears to be clicking on and off as well which would also be ECM related (swapped relays to make sure) or the connection between the battery and the ECM. I imagine changing the battery should fix the problem temporarily, but I don't think it's the issue.

Is the battery still working for you?

 

MetalDrgn, I'm having the EXACT same issue as yourself. Was your problem just a dead bettery or something else?

 

Here is some information that may help. One thing i didn't see anyone checking for a draw.
Engine Systems/Charging/Diagnosis and Testing
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - CHARGING SYSTEM
The following procedures may be used to diagnose the charging system if:

the check gauges lamp (if equipped) is illuminated with the engine running
the voltmeter (if equipped) does not register properly
an undercharged or overcharged battery condition occurs.
Remember that an undercharged battery is often caused by:

accessories being left on with the engine not running
a faulty or improperly adjusted switch that allows a lamp to stay on. Refer to Ignition-Off Draw Test in the Battery section for more information.



INSPECTION
The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) monitors critical input and output circuits of the charging system, making sure they are operational. A Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) is assigned to each input and output circuit monitored by the On-Board Diagnostic (OBD) system. Some charging system circuits are checked continuously, and some are checked only under certain conditions.

Refer to Diagnostic Trouble Codes in; Powertrain Control Module; Electronic Control Modules for more DTC information. This will include a complete list of DTCs including DTCs for the charging system.

To perform a complete test of the charging system, refer to the appropriate Diagnostic Test Procedures and use a diagnostic scan tool. Perform the following inspections before attaching the scan tool.

1. Inspect the battery condition.
2. Inspect condition of battery cable terminals, battery posts, connections at engine block, starter solenoid and relay. They should be clean and tight. Repair as required.
3. Inspect all fuses in both the fuseblock and Power Distribution Center (PDC) for tightness in receptacles. They should be properly installed and tight. Repair or replace as required.
4. Inspect generator mounting bolts for tightness. Replace or tighten bolts if required.
5. Inspect generator drive belt condition and tension. Tighten or replace belt as required.
6. Inspect automatic belt tensioner (if equipped).
7. Inspect generator electrical connections at generator field, battery output, and ground terminal (if equipped). Also check generator ground wire connection at engine (if equipped). They should all be clean and tight. Repair as required.