2006 4.7
AC hadn't been running well, then suddenly started making bad noise. Looked like clutch or coil was shot so I ordered new compressor, condenser, drier, and expansion valve. System had not lost pressure, had old contents recovered at local shop.

When I pulled everything apart, there wasn't any oil in anything at all. Not sure if recovery would have removed it. Drained oil from new compress and put in about 4.5 oz pag46. put 1.5 oz in condenser, and poured about 1 oz in suction line.
System held pressure and then ran evac for about 1.5 hours. Starting to put in new refrig I only got less than 1 can in, won't pull any more at the moment.

When Off, system is equalized around 55psi, once AC kicks in, low side goes to 105-110psi and high side drops to around 15psi.
It seems this could be a bad compressor or a blockage or bad expansion valve? I ordered parts from RockAuto, so part swapping hopefully after proper diagnosis.

I'm not sure how to proceed at this point. Any advice, I checked shop manual, and it doesn't seem to go into much details on troubleshooting compressor. I see a page on this forum for troubleshooting, but doesn't list my combination of issues.

Also, my condenser fan isn't turning on, but I'm not sure that would cause my issue that quickly? I wouldn't expect high side to drop to 15psi immediately if the only issue was the fan.

 

Obviously I'm color blind, some how got the high/low swapped on the gauge connections. Fan does spin up when direct powered. I thought it should start immediately when A/C is turned on. I'll check the fuse block.

 

I''m not getting voltage at the fan connector. I can't find the reference in the manual. I found another thread that said it was labeled 40/50 near the relay, but that fuse isn't blown. I swapped two relays, ASD and Blower motor but didn't make a difference. (just guessing here)
Anybody know the actual relay and fuse location for the condenser fan? I don't see any blown fuses under the hood.

edit: found this diagram: https://fusesdiagram.com/dodge/fuse-...durango-2.html
Is the 'radiator fan' the A/C condenser fan? The radiator doesn't have an electric fan.

 

Can I just put a jumper between pins 30 and 87 on that relay spot? Shouldn't that force the fan on? I'm assuming this 'radiator fan' is the condenser fan.

edit: Jumper across 30/87 on either hi or low radiator relay posts cause it to spin. So, either it's not supposed to be running yet (since it's only half charged with R134a, but has pressures) or there is another pressure sensor or temp sensor keeping it from turning on.

Any advice on next steps appreciated.

 

Get a service manual for your truck, read up on how the system is supposed to work, and take it from there.

 

Yeah, I've been reading through it. 6000+ pages. The electronics are hard to follow and it doesn't explain in that section exactly when something should be on or off. Need to refind the AC section for troubleshooting, hopefully will include fan not running. Just thought somebody may have some experience here...

 

I am sure there is someone that has experience with it. Just gotta wait for 'em to show up, and read the thread.

 

Found the instructions - 9-575 in the service manual, but it assumed you have a scan tool that can control the computer. There are a few checks you can do manually, so I'll run those.
Ultimately, there doesn't appear to be many input decisions for fan. The FCM is the final step and it says replace it if everything checks out, i.e. circuit open/close, bad relay, etc.

It does turn out, there is a relay for the FCM to open the relays for the fan hi/low. I haven't checked the upstream relays, not sure why there are two sets of relays.

 

There is only 1 relay per fan speed, directly powered by the FCM. I'm finding a lot of references about rusting in the TIPM box the FCM connects to. I need to remove the FCM to check if the line is open.

This site says there is a recall for the TIPM - http://www.dodgeproblems.com/trends/tipm/DodgeDurango201101/05/2010 – 07/20/2011September 2014but the defect affects gen2 also.

This site sells gen3 TIPM and says they repair the old one, so I'm guessing I may be able to repair a gen2.
https://www.autoecu.com/totally-inte...ipm-2011-2013/

I can't find any sources for this part for gen2 if that's the problem and I can't repair it myself. I'm tempted to jumper the AC Clutch relay to the fan relay, but if the TIPM is corroding, I think I want to replace it.
Anybody jumpered the relays? Would it be too many amps to power 2 relays from the AC clutch control?

 

You can go here, and check recalls on your Rango. If there is still one that applies, go to the dealer, and get it dealt with.