dodge's engine management as been encrypted since the mid 80's.

As far as you other comment... stock SRT-4 runs 13-14psi from the factory. Look up how much they put to the wheels stock, then compare that to my numbers on a 2.0l SOHC with only 10psi. 219wp / 244wtq.

The .4l does make a difference down low... the torque its sooner in the rpm range which can be good or bad depending on how you look at it.

Kalevra,
ask you mechanic how many turbo neons he built/owned/drove. I ran my car at my power for almost 30,000 hard miles. Street racing every weekend... etc. stock ead was fine, motor didn't blow. all without a stand alone EMS. The information is not true, that is all i'm getting at. With enough research you'd know your mechanic is trying to get more money out of the labor costs of a swap from you. If i was him i'd do the same.

k3v

 

I'm gona leave this thread with this... take it for what it is.

The SRT-4 complete swap is for people that do not know anything about turbos or turbo systems and can not tune or do not know enough to tune. If you did you would swap a older 2.4l and boost it for much cheaper than the "all mighty" (sarcasm) SRT-4 swap.

k3v

 

5.5k to swap from SRT4 store

 

You do realize that MANY people have done it for 3k?

 

Yeah I like the 2.0 better and I believe that it is more capable (with rebuilding obviously) to hold powerthan the 2.4 (again with the same rebuilding). Simply based on the design of it as well as some admitted prejudice against the 2.4 mitsubishi engine after working as a mechanic for 6 years(they just love to blow up)[:@]. It takes more work, and parts aren't as readily availible, so people usually don't go that route though. As for the DOHC thing, it really doesn't mean much as the SOHC also has 16 valves.

EDIT: Agreed the 2.4 swap is easier though.

 

exactly my point... hahn is also a rip off. My set-up cost me less than $3000 with the clutch included.

for one, me personally, would never pay anybody to do an install like that. I trust nobody but me when it comes to my cars.

Labor aside... I picked up a low mile strattus 2.4l complete engine from a local junk yard back in 2003 for $100. I bought turbo, manifold, intercooler and IC piping for $350. internals set-up for around $500.00 (see below). Find me a complete SRT motor for less than $1000.


PART PART NUMBER PRICE

UPPER GASKET SET 5101787AA $30.80
LOWER GASKET SET 5093452AA $25.25
MAIN BEARING 5012582AA $6.90 (4 REQUIRED)
THRUST BEARING 5093445AA $8.46
ROD BREARING 5093448AB $5.40 (4 REQUIRED)
TENSIONER 4884453AA $4.13 (BALANCE SHAFT CHAIN TENSIONER)
TIMING BELT 4621844 $54.29
PISTON/ROD ASSEMBLY 4884247AD $49.78 (4 REQUIRED)
RING SET 5093441AA $19.44 (1 REQUIRED)
IDLER PULLEY 4781569AB $30.25
TENSIONER 4781570AB $58.30 Timing Belt Tensioner
OIL PUMP 4884390AB $63.44
WATER PUMP 4884159AA $46.15

 

wait im confused graphite! lol you had a stratus engine in your sxt? maybe i just am misunderstanding.

anyway would the turbo you built in your sxtbe able to be put on the auto tranny? i am thinking yes but could be wrong and would really like to learn

 

no, i never used it... i actually tried to sell it for the $100 i paid for it and couldn't. I ended up giving it away.

For the record, there is nothing wrong with the SRT swap. There is a market for that kind of thing and the SRT4Store has taken advantage of that. I'll stand by what i mentioned earlier though. It's perfect for people with little knowledge and know how.

k3v

 

Isn't the 2.0 and 2.4 pretty much the same engine, just different bore and stroke? Also, if the 2.4 in my wife's Caravan will fit up to the transaxle and work in my SXT then what's stopping me from yanking it out and building it once we get her a new ride? I'm sure the 2.0L can handle all the HP that I'd put into it, meaning that I'm only looking for around 200 HP tops. I'm not trying to make a Pro-Stock drag car out of my Neon, just make it quicker for what IT is, not as a race car in general. I simply want to be competive against other 1.8-2.0L cars that are running around on the streetz(and of course beating that stupid Mustang in the 1/8th,LOL) I think once funds are available that a mild build of the 2.0L would get me decent HP and it'd still be reliable.
Remember, you're talking to an old Hot Rodder that's been into a few engines in his life, not some new, wet behind the ears kid that's just learned to drive. I've tweeked Fords, Buicks, Olds and VW's for quite a few years to run a bit better while still being reliable. I think I can play with a Dodge 2.0L and not blow it up. The only thing that's really bugging me is NO frickin' ECM for my car. Ran into the same thing in my 3.7L Dodge Ram Truck. Seems like it'd be an easy thing for HyperTech or some of the other guys to bring out a chip for just about any application since all you need to do is flash a dang chip after you test a car on a dyno to see what boosts the HP a bit.

 

totally different block and head

with proper tuning it could. you will need to get a Megasquirt: stand alone ECU needed to boosting a 2.0. you must tune this yourself. also, anything over 10-12PSI you must build up the bottom end, atleast, recomended to do the top end/head aswell

and the MS system would be like those superchips for your truck that tune the a/f ratio, timing curve, spark timing Etc


good luck without a turbo or nos

you should already be competitive if you're MTX. and to beat a mustang, turbo or nos

122WHP is all you will get naturally aspirrated with a radical build (I believe)