How much HP could I expect?
ORIGINAL: Kalevra
if you want to turbo a 2.0 you have to have some sort of aftermarket ECU
if you want to turbo a 2.0 you have to have some sort of aftermarket ECU
blackflame...
The LSD in the SRT-4 tranny is a "Quaife", its the same unit you would buy for your tranny. Also the only thing holding me back was my stock bottom end. 10psi gave me 244wtq. They say the block can handle 250wtq before it will blow, which may not be so true for the 03-05 neons. Do not quote me on that. I do know due to a faulty boost controller i did about 4-5 pulls, yes pushing my luck but it was fast as hell, at 15psi and nothing blew. My A/F and EGTs were good so i kept in it. I didn't fix the boost controller when i got home.
k3v
ORIGINAL: blackflame
Hey graphite, do you remember your parts list from your 219whp neon? I would like to search it again.
Hey graphite, do you remember your parts list from your 219whp neon? I would like to search it again.
Interior:
~McFab STS
~Solid Shift Cradle Mod
~Booger Bushings
~SRT-4 Viper Inspired Seats
Exterior:
~De-Badged
~Shaved Door Moldings
~Euro Clear Corners
~Euro Clear 3rd Brake
Engine:
~Unorthodox UDP
~ACR/RT Gears 3.94s
~ACR/RT Head
~ACR/RT Cams
~Head Spacer
~2 Felpro Head Gaskets
~"mattdog" SOHC to DOHC Flange Adapter
~SRT-4 Turbo
~SRT-4 Exhaust Manifold
~SRT-4 FMIC
~SRT-4 Hard Pipes - Hot & Cold
~Stage 0 SRT Injectors
~BMW Cold Start Injector on 4psi boost switch
~Aeromotive 1:1 FPR
~Walbro 255
~Custom return line
~SPEC Stage 2 Clutch
~Mopar TOB
~SRT-4 o2 Housing
~CherryBomb Glasspack
~SRT-4 Rear Section
~Needswing 3' to 3" Cat Delete/ Electronic Cut-Out
~8.5mm Fire Wires
~Grounding Kit
~Motor Mount Inserts: Lower Torque Arm & Tranny
~Solid AFX Upper Torque Arm
~Greddy Type-S BOV
~Ebay MBC
Suspension:
~Mopar Lowering Springs
~Front: Sway Bar
~Front: Strut Bar
In Car Electronics:
~Stock ECU
~SAFCII
~Autometer EGT
~AEM UEGO Wideband
~Auto-Meter CF 30 psi Boost Gauge
~Pioneer head unit
ok. So if you built up your bottom end do you think you could ever hit 400whp? I think ive said this before but I want to plan for the long run. If i'm going to be held back a lot I don't want to do it. Yes...FWD neons aren't the best way to go but when i bought the car I didn't know as much as I did now and i didn't have the money lol.
ORIGINAL: blackflame
ok. So if you built up your bottom end do you think you could ever hit 400whp? I think ive said this before but I want to plan for the long run. If i'm going to be held back a lot I don't want to do it. Yes...FWD neons aren't the best way to go but when i bought the car I didn't know as much as I did now and i didn't have the money lol.
ok. So if you built up your bottom end do you think you could ever hit 400whp? I think ive said this before but I want to plan for the long run. If i'm going to be held back a lot I don't want to do it. Yes...FWD neons aren't the best way to go but when i bought the car I didn't know as much as I did now and i didn't have the money lol.
They are capable of what ever you want to throw at it as long as its built correctly. Here is a 400hp 2nd gen: http://www.roachracing.net/
There are much better platforms to build for high power than the neon. This is why i'm done with neons except for my daily driver that if modded... will only be modded to the specifications of stock class SCCA soloII. which isn't much. lol
k3v
Kalevra, you're going off what you read. And i'm not saying that's neccessarily bad because searching and researching is always good...but you really don't know what you're talking about.
One reason I like to talk in terms of Crank HP is because it's what the manufacture uses when they talk HP. Also, most racers that I know talk Crank HP since they generally have their engine Dyno'ed out of the car. You have a lot of factors that'll affect WHP so even with the same engine putting out "X" Crank HP the WHP could be different for different cars.
In terms of what you'll do on the street WHP is what will matter but Crank is what you'll hear most people talking about. Also, since Crank HP is a higher number is sounds more impressive.
I remember back in the day manufactures would test their engines bare on a Dyno to get HP numbers then in the mid-70's they went to Crank HP with all the stuff attached to the motor and you should have seen how the numbers dropped. Engines that were advertised at 350 HP suddenly went to 235 or even less because of all the stuff attached to it dragging it down. Also, compression ratios went down too and that had a big effect on HP.
HP is all relitive to the amount of weight you'll be bolting it into. 250 HP in a Neon is ***** quick, the same amount in a Chevel or Nova isn't nearly as quick because of the power to weight ratio. If you can't get more HP then lightening the car will give you the same effect. Like I said, it's all relitive.
P.S.
Just changed plugs and WOW, it was so easy. I loved it. Why can't all cars be so easy to change plugs in.
In terms of what you'll do on the street WHP is what will matter but Crank is what you'll hear most people talking about. Also, since Crank HP is a higher number is sounds more impressive.
I remember back in the day manufactures would test their engines bare on a Dyno to get HP numbers then in the mid-70's they went to Crank HP with all the stuff attached to the motor and you should have seen how the numbers dropped. Engines that were advertised at 350 HP suddenly went to 235 or even less because of all the stuff attached to it dragging it down. Also, compression ratios went down too and that had a big effect on HP.
HP is all relitive to the amount of weight you'll be bolting it into. 250 HP in a Neon is ***** quick, the same amount in a Chevel or Nova isn't nearly as quick because of the power to weight ratio. If you can't get more HP then lightening the car will give you the same effect. Like I said, it's all relitive.
P.S.
Just changed plugs and WOW, it was so easy. I loved it. Why can't all cars be so easy to change plugs in.
I agree with weight thing. I was pretty surprised when I beat a V6 firebird by toooonnnsss. I didn't know the guy or car but I know the slowest pontiac you can buy has 200hp but weighs 2,500lbs. It still surprises me though. Weight is such a big deal.
EDIT: I was stock...besides the CAI
EDIT: I was stock...besides the CAI
ok graphite, straight out, if someone were to run the same set up as you did in your sxt, as far as the turbo only, would it be safe to run on an auto tranny? it seems very appealing......how long would the car last etc?
The car would last just fine. You would need to build the bottom end to run any serious boost (past 8 psi).
On an auto transmission, you would have to baby the throttle. Anything close to the 200 whp marker will blow it up. It is safe, as long as you baby it and don't throw the hammer down.
I know I am not graphite... but I hope my answer accounts for something.
On an auto transmission, you would have to baby the throttle. Anything close to the 200 whp marker will blow it up. It is safe, as long as you baby it and don't throw the hammer down.
I know I am not graphite... but I hope my answer accounts for something.
ORIGINAL: Freerider
The car would last just fine. You would need to build the bottom end to run any serious boost (past 8 psi).
On an auto transmission, you would have to baby the throttle. Anything close to the 200 whp marker will blow it up. It is safe, as long as you baby it and don't throw the hammer down.
I know I am not graphite... but I hope my answer accounts for something.
The car would last just fine. You would need to build the bottom end to run any serious boost (past 8 psi).
On an auto transmission, you would have to baby the throttle. Anything close to the 200 whp marker will blow it up. It is safe, as long as you baby it and don't throw the hammer down.
I know I am not graphite... but I hope my answer accounts for something.


