hmmm...when i got mine..i took them out of a neon...long story...but i just jammed my hand behind the assemblies, and took them out...it wasnt easy..but its a PITA on the RT too...

 

I could get the passenger side bulb by doing that, but the drivers side headlight I could not do that to. You have to take the headlight out, you can't fit your hand back there. I might be able to now that I took my airbox out I may have room now.

 

hmmm...the one that i, umm, borrowed the lights from had a body kit and CF hood...i tried to, umm, borrow the CF hood, but someone came along, and i didnt have any tools...but i got their eurolites heads and blue corners...

and the HU...

and when removing everything, i wasnt very gentle...it had a bunch of stuff removed though...no air box..it was total rice..he had an air filter fixed onto the TB, which seemed to be held up by nothing....ghetto pos.

just for the record i wasnt jacking someones car in a parking lot...

 

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Hi everyone I am a newbie so let me cut right to the chase: The difference in headlamps is simple. Let's start at the top. A "Real" HiD kit you see going on Ebay for about 300 bucks all use a similar ballast to control the amount of light going through the bulb usually filled with some sort of Xenon/krypton/argon gas mixture. I don't know the exact mixture percentages. But an HiD kit making light output is relatively simple, as a "High-Intensity Discharge" lamp creates an arc in the bulbs to create light, whereas a regular bulb uses a filament to do so. When you buy "HID-Look" bulbs, you re usually increasing the wattage from about 55 with halogen to 85 or more with xenon-gas filled or whatever gas concoction they can think of. The extra wattage is needed to make the light output equal or exceed that of a Halogen lamp. Those real 8000K or higher HID look bulbs usually are extremely high wattages so be wary. This leads me to Kelvin temperature and Lumens. about 5000K MAYBE 6000K in kelvin temperature will yield you the brightest light because the lumen output is the greatest there. As the Kelvin temperature goes up, the lumens emitted, or the light actually gets darker. BMW's are equipped with a very sophisticated HID system around 8000K I believe. They look purple from any angle other than 90 degrees from far away. However, that Kelvin temperature rating only measures the light temperature on the light spectrum. The intensity of the light is measured in lumens. The higher the lumens, the brighter the light. Our eyes are not advanced enough to notice any discernible difference in lumen ratings, and a light sensor is needed to accurately measure the output of any and all bulbs. So if going for just the look, you have a wealth of options.

Real HID bulbs to not need extra wattage or to be tinted blue for that look because the arc discharge naturally creates a certain output depending on the bulb gas percentages. I would always say to be wary when buying HID look bulbs because they are generally higher wattage. My buddy's Mustang melted part of his stock lamp housing because he was using 100W HID look bulbs. I hope this serves as a general guide when bulb shopping. My own Intrepid bulbs had aftermarket bulbs that burned out in a couple of years. As always, buyer beware. I hope that this will help you all make educated decisions when buying new bulbs.

 

Hey, you're pretty intelligent. Your not the only one who told me about the wattage burning and melting part of the headlamp. I had Dodge take a look at them and they said they are ok. Wow though. I am impressed on your feedback. I do appreciate it. Thanks

 

Well thanks. Basically I am a 20 year old Mechanical Engineering Student (I might change majors in the near future), and am still somewhat involved in the Mark3 Supra community. The Old Supra is a car I very much enjoy and still have, albeit in non-running condition. I'm trying to make ends meet and build a street Supra worthy to be inducted into the 7Mpower.com 400+hp club. Now that I have a Neon, the desire to go faster and handle better with this car has become another hurdle in my steps to building my old Supra.

 

I want cool lights tooo!!

 

What kind of "cool" lights? Cooler temperatures? Cooler Look? Cooler Kelvins? Okay bad joke....

One last warning: any and all Ebay brand that me and my friends have purchased thus far have burned out within 6 months.

Sylvania Silverstars are probably a higher quality light, but they are exceedingly overpriced IMHO. I forget where, but someone had this great writeup online about most aftermarket lamps do little to nothing for visibility, and HID kits are also nearly useless (except for a cosmetic wow factor), including Silverstars and Xenarcs, because our housings were not originally created for optimal light output through the use of a HID lamp. Most HID lamp housings are very small, focused (sometimes projector beam) housings that focus the light along a set pattern. I could agree to this theory except for the fact that most BMW and Lincoln's which have HID options are usually installed without changing out the housings. They might list them as a different part number, but I sincerely doubt the mirroring inside the housing has been optimized for HID use, if that is even possible.

 

so all headlight units make that yellow junk on tha lens?isnt that from moisture?