Originally Posted by Captansavaho

1. maddog STS best way to go = http://www.maddogsts.com/

2.think its held on by a hex screw on the side of the shifter head
T/y

3.not sure about the steering wheel..get a nice quick disconnect sparco!
I'd take i need a sterring wheel puller right?....Agh....

4. try a local shop..got my exhaust done form catback for 200 with 2.5" piping and dual tips..look around...but thats not a bad choice either.
Not around here shops are crazy expensive.

5.do you know what has already been changed/replaced..timing belt and stuff like that
Not really I plan to replace alot of stuff because of themiles.... And you mean timing chain right DO i really need to reaplce that? Any good place to get a good Ring set?

Originally Posted by darthroush

I don't believe the belt to be "hard" to change, just a long process. I know every step to do it, but I am still considering just paying someone to. The one thing that would make it difficult is the timing marks cannot move.

Originally Posted by The Black Stig

In theory If you loosen the belt tensioner you should be able to just slip it on... I will just have my friend help me do it, He's a tech at a Chevy dealer plsu he as all the Cool tools
True, it's just getting there that seems to be the pain. I'm not super positive on it as I haven't actually done it yet.

From what I've searched

I need...

A water Pump (Just RTV or should I get the gasket,also will all of the coolant come out too? )
You have the manual? I'd just follow what it recommends. Looking at the Dodge shop manual, they say to apply di-electric grease to the new o-ring before placing it into position and the way they describe it, it seems it should have a gasket to be used.

Belt

2004+ tensioner (And i should cut a hole in the plastic for the new one right?)
I don't know about upgrading the tensioner, though there is a thread around somewhere about it.
Engine Struts(are the called something else at auto zone?)
Only need 'em if they are broken. The proper name for them are the upper and lower torque struts. The thing you will want to look at while doing this job is the actual motor mount. It's the one bolted to the frame/body directly across from the timing belt cover. This will be the only time where you can actually see if it is broken or worn or not. Me, even if it weren't broken, I'd replace it. You are in there already, might as well. Better than having to take everything apart again just to replace it later. Removing the mount is like the last step before taking the timing belt cover off. They are less than like $30.
Am I missng something?
Um, water pump and timing belt kit. Should be it unless you are going to do the mount.

Oh and I'm getting refurb fuel injectors too, I talked they guy(he's from ebay). I soaks them in an ultrasonic tub full of solvent(I'm assuming it's ether). And he adds new seals, In either case he told me 17.50 per injecotr and he will give a $20 core exchange too.

Good deal? I seen a few of his pics the look very clean on the port sides, still can tell it was once used but thats a good thing casue that means he's not doctering his pics