2nd Gen Neon 2000 - 2005 2nd Gen Neon

My car with pics

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  #21  
Old 02-03-2010, 09:04 AM
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Originally Posted by darthroush
I think people usually use a non-fouler for the downstream one. Not sure why the upstream one would do that. No wires melted or anything?
Nothing, it's werid but i think my friend caused it, he couldn't find gears to save his life. I think third gear + flooring it = not good.

I will reset it, and if it happens agian find the issue.
 
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Old 02-03-2010, 03:33 PM
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okay rest and after a hour round trip it came back on. I will do some resarch on it but what are you guys thinking?
 
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Old 02-03-2010, 03:41 PM
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Okay research done

The catalytic converter has an oxygen sensor in front and behind it. When the vehicle is warm and running in closed loop mode, the upstream oxygen sensor waveform reading should fluctuate. The downstream O2 sensor reading should be fairly steady. Typically the P0420 code triggers the Check Engine Light if the readings of the two sensors are similar. This is indicative of (among other things) a converter that is not working as efficiently as it should be (according to specs). It is part of the vehicle emissions system

So in a nutshell the o2 sensors are doing math and because cat is not sitting in between them anymore the back o2 sensor is cheating off the front one. and they are getting the same answer so now all i have to do it is get rob(aka Mr.resistor) and put him between the too and the back o2 can't cheat anymore
 
  #24  
Old 02-03-2010, 04:15 PM
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That's where people put in the non-fouler as well; the downstream O2 sensor.
 
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Old 02-03-2010, 04:30 PM
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did the resistor and I'll you know after this Lil road trip I'm taking if it comes back on.
 
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Old 02-04-2010, 03:59 PM
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Power Wire Redone.

It helped ALOT, less stutter at lower rpm and the engine revs smother as well def the best upgrade I've done so far. I still need to do the Main postive from the alt, I really didn't fill like lifting the car and I was Low on power wire.

Also I couldn't tell if the lights and stuff was dimming(it was light out) but it appeared to be fine Will give a def answer later on tonight.

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  #27  
Old 02-04-2010, 05:40 PM
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The headlights actually ground to the front radiator support. Check those grounds for headlight issues too.

What's the best place to get that wire from for a decent price? I'm sure stereo shops mark theirs up more because theirs is "better."
 
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Old 02-04-2010, 05:56 PM
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Originally Posted by darthroush
The headlights actually ground to the front radiator support. Check those grounds for headlight issues too.

What's the best place to get that wire from for a decent price? I'm sure stereo shops mark theirs up more because theirs is "better."
I got HID's . And I meant the lights inside.

Home depot Thats all two guage wire(1.50 a foot) it is a bit stiff and hard to work with.

I suggest soldier on termnal ends The only place i could find these at were ACE Hardware @ 2$ each(mad) Home depot DOES NOT stock them and yes they are cheaper online.

Also you will want a hack saw to cut up the wire it's just cheaper than the low guage wire cutters.

OH and those battery termanls were found here (CLICK ME) you will need the postive as they are diffrent sizes.
 

Last edited by The Black Stig; 02-04-2010 at 05:58 PM.
  #29  
Old 02-04-2010, 06:34 PM
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For $1.50/ft, I'll take 2-gauge over 1/0! I could probably even afford to do this project sooner than later at that price. I suppose I'll have to learn how to properly solder though. What about clamp-on? I've heard not to use solder-on clamps, but my main reason is I'm not very experienced with soldering --> any solder would work if I do go that route? Either way, they'll have shrink tubing on them as well.

Oh, how many feet did you get...err, use? I've heard 12' should be enough?
 
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Old 02-05-2010, 10:03 AM
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Originally Posted by darthroush
For $1.50/ft, I'll take 2-gauge over 1/0! I could probably even afford to do this project sooner than later at that price. I suppose I'll have to learn how to properly solder though. What about clamp-on? I've heard not to use solder-on clamps, but my main reason is I'm not very experienced with soldering --> any solder would work if I do go that route? Either way, they'll have shrink tubing on them as well.

Oh, how many feet did you get...err, use? I've heard 12' should be enough?


13 but i would suggest 14/15 I'm about half short to do the main power from the alt.

And it's super easy to solder the ends on. there pretty much like a Lil copper cup. Here's some pics







 


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