2nd Gen Neon 2000 - 2005 2nd Gen Neon

My car with pics

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Old Feb 5, 2010 | 11:50 AM
  #31  
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Ah, you fill the cup with solder and stick the wire in? Nice. Is that red piece shrink tubing?

I stopped by a Home Depot yesterday while on a break from school, and they've got all of the wire there. I got to talking to the guy, and he said that wire they have is fine for grounds, but not to use it for power (amps for subs was the main thing people came in there to get it for)? He said he was told it wasn't good because of the shielding? He was told it wasn't thick enough?

Anyways, there are three more grounds you can do on the Neon too, if you want. In addition to the two from the Big 3, there is also the negative battery to block, chassis to motor/strut mount and the block/transmission to the battery tray.

I'd be curious, when you do the power wire, how long it comes out to be.

 
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Old Feb 5, 2010 | 12:55 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by darthroush
Ah, you fill the cup with solder and stick the wire in? Nice. Is that red piece shrink tubing?

Yes,Yes

I stopped by a Home Depot yesterday while on a break from school, and they've got all of the wire there. I got to talking to the guy, and he said that wire they have is fine for grounds, but not to use it for power (amps for subs was the main thing people came in there to get it for)? He said he was told it wasn't good because of the shielding? He was told it wasn't thick enough?

Nah, it's an issue with rca cables RCA cables without good shields are Bad and noisy.

Anyways, there are three more grounds you can do on the Neon too, if you want. In addition to the two from the Big 3, there is also the negative battery to block, chassis to motor/strut mount and the block/transmission to the battery tray.

Kinda of, I'll show what I did exactly soon.

I'd be curious, when you do the power wire, how long it comes out to be.

Not any time soon I''ll likely do that when i change the oil pan gasket oil filter and screw, you have to lift the car to get at the alt power wire. No way around it. but like i said it's 14-15 feet total i pretty much have enough to get to the alt and to a fuse i just need another half foot to a foot from the fuse to battery.

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Old Feb 5, 2010 | 01:38 PM
  #33  
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I got ya. I thought the shielding thing seemed a bit...out of place for this. Sounds good man! Thanks for the tips too!
 
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Old Feb 5, 2010 | 02:30 PM
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Okay So the Resitor.... it kinda of worked. Okay so after the 10-15 min's of driving it came back of and i got the neither rich nor lean condition code. Heres the loopy part After 2 4k RPM+ Pulls it went off. And then came back on once i resumed "normal driving" So it seems the resistor Has two much resistance I will try Less resistant one and see what happens
 
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Old Feb 5, 2010 | 03:40 PM
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Here's this if all else fails.

https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen-neon/96604-how-too-trick-your-computer-if-no-cat.html
 
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Old Feb 5, 2010 | 06:52 PM
  #36  
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Meh it worked CEL went off by it self and I'm still under six buck

I used this One.

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Old Feb 6, 2010 | 12:25 AM
  #37  
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LOL, that works! Nice when little things like that work out!

I got my 10' of 2AWG tonight @ $1.10/ft. for all of the grounds. Going to go pick up the lugs and shrink tubing in the morning. I'll go with some 1/0 when I can afford to get the fuse that goes along with it, for the power wire upgrade.
 
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Old Feb 6, 2010 | 08:46 AM
  #38  
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Have FUN!!! I would still use 2 guage 1/0 wire from home depot is so hard to work with. and honestly are alts couldn't pump enough power to even hurt that two guage.
 
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Old Feb 6, 2010 | 02:35 PM
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You know what the factory alternators put out by any chance? I suppose if it is under what, 95 amps, which I'm sure it is, 2 gauge would be fine. I'm just thinking about the fuse that I would need. Obviously, if the amp isn't putting out 150amps, I don't need an expensive 150amp fuse.
 
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Old Feb 6, 2010 | 06:06 PM
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I would guess 125amp get the 150 thats what the fuseable link is
 
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