dirtyjersey the "mount" u changed is the torque strut which needs to be properly aligned to work how it should. look at darths links to give it a shot realigning it and maybe get a torque wrench too just to be certain its not too loose or tight

 

I went out today and re did the torque struts since reading this and I think i have figured out why it didn't work the first time. If you don't loosen the bolts holding the regular motor mount when you go to raise the motor to tilt it will just go back and not hold adjustment. Also I have found out that the nut in the middle of the torque strut can't be leaning one way or the other, because I think that's where the vibration is coming from. I do know from messing with this for years it's not a idle problem it has to be the rubber and the motor shifting because I have changed all motor mounts and still to this day it shakes. I'm going to take it for a good long ride, and will report my findings when I come back.

 

You aren't supposed to loosen those bolts. That mount is in a specific spot from the factory and isn't supposed to be moved to any other spot. That is why when changing the timing belt, or that mount, you are supposed to mark its exact position so it can be put back into that exact spot.

 

I'm not talking about those bolts, I'm talking about the ones by the fender and wheel. You turn the wheel and you can see them straight in. And by the way how is your shaking situation going now?

 

For the lower torque strut? The upper and lower need to be loosened together when you do the alignment, whether you replaced one or the other, or both. It's just that you measure from the top.

My shaking situation is still that. I've drilled a hole in the throttle body plate to allow a bit more air in, but still have issues. I need to turn the idle screw back down a bit still, but I think I also need to make the hole a bit bigger and see what happens.

 

I just got back in and have pin pointed the problem. It is definitively the upper torque strut pressing up against the metal . I have it disconnected and you can try it too and see what happens. The lower one is still connected, but to prove the point, try it and see what happens. Just disconnect the bolt and see how it feels. I know that's the problem because the connecting side sits right on the firewall and that's where all the vibration is coming from. Don't know what dodge was thinking when they made it this way but it sure does sux ! Let me know what you find because this has driven me crazy since I bought the car.

 

My car had a healthy vibration a few weeks ago.

The throttle plate is undrilled.

After swapping the trans which had a mount with 32K on it 90% of vibration is gone.

 

I wonder if some sort of bushing could be made to go underneath the bolt...
Maybe I'll do some experimenting one of these days.

 

I got the cluster with tach installed and for my car when it shakes the rpms are about 600, when its not shaking its at between 800 and 900... what would cause it do this only part of the time?

 

There's a computer flash that is supposed to fix that. I had it done and mine still does it, so I am not sure.