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2nd Gen Neon 2000 - 2005 2nd Gen Neon

Dodge Neon Part Numbers, Maintenance Intervals and Fluid Capacities

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  #11  
Old 04-05-2013, 01:41 AM
Georgioray
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Hi Darth I'm a newbie to the forums and I really appreciate all the feedback and info you provide on the forums. If I could trouble you for some advice, I'm about to have a lot of work done on my 05 SXT and I'm purchasing everything through RockAuto. I know you've recommended stock ignition coils for the Neon but there are a few different brands on RockAuto. I was wondering if there was a particular aftermarket brand you could suggest or recommend besides the more expensive Mopar dealership part or should I stick with Mopar? Thanks!
 

Last edited by Georgioray; 04-05-2013 at 01:50 AM.
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  #12  
Old 04-05-2013, 02:00 AM
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Generally I only recommend OEM/Dodge/Mopar sensors and the engine mount. Other than that, as long as it is an OEM replacement, the part should be fine. Looking at the ignition coils available on RockAuto, I personally would order the Standard Motor Products one because I know the name. Delphi should be very good, but their price also reflects it. If you are just getting maintenance work done, I'd skip the coil. It only needs to be replaced when it fails. It's not something you replace every ______ thousand miles.
 
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  #13  
Old 04-05-2013, 02:15 AM
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Thanks Darth I really appreciate the feedback! My car has 104k miles on it and I've never changed the coil. A few weeks ago my engine light came on and I had a misfire in spark plug 2 and there was a bit of stutter when accelerating. The misfire and engine light went away but I still experience a little bit of stutter from time to time and my car is a little rough to start up. I usually have to turn the ignition 2 to 3 times before it starts. Could this have anything to do with the coil? Thanks!
 
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  #14  
Old 04-05-2013, 02:18 AM
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Another question, Is the difference in price between the Standard Motor Products and Delphi coil worth getting the Delphi? Thanks!
 
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  #15  
Old 04-05-2013, 02:33 AM
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For certain parts on certain cars, yes. For that particular part for this particular car, no.
 
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  #16  
Old 04-05-2013, 03:09 AM
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Thanks Darth!
 
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  #17  
Old 04-05-2013, 05:39 AM
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Hey Darth me again, sorry to bother. For the Gates Timing Belt Kit, do I get it with or without bracket? I'm not sure about this. Thanks!
 

Last edited by Georgioray; 04-05-2013 at 05:57 AM.
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  #18  
Old 04-05-2013, 07:32 PM
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I bought it without. If your bracket isn't broken, you don't need it. Kind of impossible to tell without getting that far into it, but I imagine it'd require an outside force or a bad belt break incident to break the bracket.
 
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  #19  
Old 04-05-2013, 08:36 PM
Georgioray
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Originally Posted by darthroush View Post
I bought it without. If your bracket isn't broken, you don't need it. Kind of impossible to tell without getting that far into it, but I imagine it'd require an outside force or a bad belt break incident to break the bracket.
Thanks again Darth! My belt is still intact so that answers that. I have a few more questions please. I noticed you recommend changing the Cam and Crank Seals when doing the timing belt, by any chance do you know the part numbers? Sorry I don't want to get the wrong parts. As far as the Engine Mount Plate/Belt Tensioner Assembly, is this only needed when it's broken such as the bracket? Thanks again man, you f**kin rock!!!
 
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  #20  
Old 04-06-2013, 01:57 AM
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I can get parts numbers for those, but every store carries a different brand so all the numbers will be different. RockAuto has them listed as camshaft and crankshaft seals under the engine section and there is a whole list to choose from. I think they have both Timken and Gates. Either of those should be plenty find.

Yes, the engine mount plate/belt tensioner assembly only gets replaced when broken. Usually it's the belt tensioner that breaks and causes the need for replacement. The engine mount plate is the large metal plate covering up the timing belt cover.

Just saw your question about the ignition coil. To me, it sounds like old plugs and/or wires. The way the coil is setup, if it were a bad coil, you'd usually have two misfires together on either cylinders 1 and 4 or 2 and 3.
 
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