I was on my way to go pick up another car I was buying, and I got about 25 miles and with no warning third gear let go and the car went into limp mode. the trans is not nor did it make any noise or rattle, I reset the CEL and the car drives and shifts normal until it shifts into third and there is nothing there, no grabbing, slipping, or stuttering, it is like it went into neutral. befor I go and replace the transmission, I would like to know if anyone has had something similar happen, or if there is any way to bypass third just to see if it is the trans or not. I also changed the trans fluid and it is still the same, the only codes I get is P0700, and P0733 the first is just informational and the second one is third gear incorrect ratio. I appreciate all and any help.

 

I believe a mechanic can hook up to the pressure ports on the transmission and test the gears/trans that way? There is another moderator on here that knows more about what I'm thinking about, and will probably be correcting me, lol. I'll shoot him a PM for you.

 

Thanks I appreciate it.

 

if it goes 1-2 then neutrals out for 3rd you have a broken OD hub or stripped OD carrier. I've come across this one a lot (over 30 times) in the past 15 years.

 

Welcome to dodge forum
Darthroush I got your message. Have you check the fluid level and if you did was the fluid burnt? P0733 means something happen inside the transmission is not good. Here is what I would recommend and I'm going to post the test on the pressure ports. If you wanted to do this. Have a scanner that can do a clutch test on the transmission. Perform a 3rd gear test, If the test fail then either the hub with shaft broke or a planetary gear came apart.

HYDRAULIC PRESSURE TESTS
Pressure testing is a very important step in the diagnostic procedure. These tests usually reveal the cause of most hydraulic transaxle problems.

Before performing pressure tests, be certain that fluid level and condition, and shift cable adjustments have been checked and approved. Fluid must be at operating temperature 150 to 200 ° F. (66 to 93 ° C).

Install an engine tachometer, raise vehicle on hoist which allows front wheels to turn, and position tachometer so it can be read.

Attach 300 psi Gauge C-3293SP to port(s) (1)(Pressure Taps) overdrive clutch, (2) torque converter off, (3) low/reverse clutch, (4) 2/4 clutch, (5) reverse clutch, (6) underdrive clutch required for test(s) being conducted. Use Adapter Set L-4559 to adapt gauge(s) to transaxle.

TEST ONE-SELECTOR IN LOW (1st GEAR)
Attach pressure gauge to the low/reverse clutch tap.
Move selector lever to the (L) position.
Allow vehicle wheels to turn and increase throttle opening to achieve an indicated vehicle speed to 20 mph.
Low/reverse clutch pressure should read 115 to 145 psi.
This test checks pump output, pressure regulation and condition of the low/reverse clutch hydraulic circuit and shift schedule.
TEST TWO-SELECTOR IN DRIVE (2nd GEAR)
NOTE: This test checks the underdrive clutch hydraulic circuit as well as the shift schedule.

Attach gauge to the underdrive clutch tap.
Move selector lever to the 3 position.
Allow vehicle wheels to turn and increase throttle opening to achieve an indicated vehicle speed of 30 mph.
In second gear the underdrive clutch pressure should read 110 to 145 psi.
TEST TWO A–SELECTOR IN OD (4th Gear)
NOTE: This test checks the underdrive clutch hydraulic circuit as well as the shift schedule.

Attach gauge to the underdrive clutch tap.
Move selector lever to the (OD) position.
Allow wheels to rotate freely and increase throttle opening to achieve an indicated speed of 40 mph.
Underdrive clutch pressure should read below 5 psi. If not, then either the solenoid assembly or PCM/TCM is at fault.
TEST THREE-OVERDRIVE CLUTCH CHECK (3rd and 2nd Gear)
Attach gauge to the overdrive clutch tap.
Move selector lever to the (OD) position.
Allow vehicle wheels to turn and increase throttle opening to achieve an indicated vehicle speed of 20 mph. Vehicle should be in 3rd gear.
Overdrive clutch pressure should read 74 to 95 psi.
Move selector lever to the (3) position and increase indicated vehicle speed to 30 mph.
The vehicle should be in second gear and overdrive clutch pressure should be less than 5 psi.
This test checks the overdrive clutch hydraulic circuit as well as the shift schedule.
TEST FOUR-SELECTOR IN OVERDRIVE (4th Gear)
Attach gauge to the 2/4 clutch tap.
Move selector lever to the (OD) position.
Allow vehicle front wheels to turn and increase throttle opening to achieve an indicated vehicle speed of 30 mph. Vehicle should be in 4th gear.
The 2/4 clutch pressure should read 75 to 95 psi.
This test checks the 2/4 clutch hydraulic circuit.
TEST FIVE-SELECTOR IN OVERDRIVE (4th Gear-CC on)
Attach gauge to the torque converter clutch off pressure tap.
Move selector lever to the (OD) position.
Allow vehicle wheels to turn and increase throttle opening to achieve an indicated vehicle speed of 50 mph. Vehicle should be in 4th gear, CC on.
CAUTION: Both wheels must turn at the same speed.

Torque converter clutch off pressure should be less than 5 psi.
This test checks the torque converter clutch hydraulic circuit.
TEST SIX-SELECTOR IN REVERSE
Attach gauges to the reverse and LR clutch tap.
Move selector lever to the (R) position.
Read reverse clutch pressure with output stationary (foot on brake) and throttle opened to achieve 1500 rpm.
Reverse and LR clutch pressure should read 165 to 235 psi.
This test checks the reverse clutch hydraulic circuit.
TEST RESULT INDICATIONS
If proper line pressure is found in any one test, the pump and pressure regulator are working properly.
Low pressure in all positions indicates a defective pump, a clogged filter, or a stuck pressure regulator valve.
Clutch circuit leaks are indicated if pressures do not fall within the specified pressure range.
If the overdrive clutch pressure is greater than 5 psi in Step 4 of Test Three, a worn reaction shaft seal ring or a defective solenoid assembly is indicated.
If the underdrive clutch pressure is greater than 5 psi in Step 4 of Test Two A, a defective solenoid assembly or PCM/TCM is the cause. PRESSURE CHECK SPECIFICATIONS Gear Selector Position Actual Gear Pressure Taps
Underdrive Clutch Overdrive Clutch Reverse Clutch Torque Converter Clutch Off 2/4 Clutch Low/Reverse Clutch
PARK PARK 0-2 0-5 0-2 60-110 0-2 115-145
0 mph *
REVERSE REVERSE 0-2 0-7 165-235 50-100 0-2 165-235
0 mph *
NEUTRAL NEUTRAL 0-2 0-5 0-2 60-110 0-2 115-145
0 mph *
LOW FIRST 110-145 0-5 0-2 60-110 0-2 115-145
20 mph #
3 SECOND 110-145 0-5 0-2 60-110 115-145 0-2
30 mph #
3 DIRECT 75-95 75-95 0-2 60-90 0-2 0-2
45 mph #
OD OVERDRIVE 0-2 75-95 0-2 60-90 75-95 0-2
30 mph #
OD OVERDRIVE WITH TCC 0-2 75-95 0-2 0-5 75-95 0-2
50 mph #
* Engine speed at 1500 rpm
# CAUTION: Both front wheels must be turning at the same speed.

 

Thanks for stopping by master tech!

 

thanks for the reply. it did smell a little burnt, and I checked the fluid right after it happened and it was about one quart low, and when i changed the fluid yesterday the magnet didn't have much sludge on it and there wasn't anything in the bottom of the pan. its the wifes car and I was overseas for a couple of months so it was a little hard to get her to check anything. I will see if I can find a place that will check it for a decent price if it is over 100.00 I will just go to the local junkyard here and grab a used one for the same price and put it in. thanks for all the help I really appreciate it.

 

I don't need to cut and paste from the FSM to tell you that you have a broken hard part in the trans. most likely an OD hub.

you don't need to spend $100 to have someone tell you that.


to find a used trans www.car-part.com you can always make this repair. it's pretty darn easy fix.

Long before we had the internet, when I was 16, I blew my trans in my duster. having no clue what to do, I got the trans out, pulled it apart found the problem got the parts, put it together and dang, it worked. and I didn't even have anyone help me no any internet.

so, drop your trans, remove torque converter, remove pump (5 bolts 8mm), use 2 3.8" bolts to press pump out (you'll see 2 holes with threads from where you took out the 8mm bolts). then remove entire input hub assembly.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WzhwVlmyd_8 at 32 seconds theres a picture of the input assembly there are 2 shafts out the back, the outer is the one that breaks or the outer is the one that strips teeth which causes a neutral condtion for 3rd.