Battery disconnection shouldn't have any effect on the cluster. AFAIK, yes, the water pump (a mechanical problem) is driven by the timing belt on all the Neons.

EDIT- Here's the application of the water pump, and it lists for interference-type applications, timing belt driven:
There is a different tensioner for either the 2000 or 2001 Neon (or both), but that's the only differences that I know of. Unless you have just recently changed the timing belt and tensioner, I'd suggest changing those at the same time. They are all in the same spot and you'll save the hours worth of labor later to do it again. Same goes for the motor mount, serpentine belt tensioner pulley, serpentine belts, cam and crank seals (I didn't change these two seals, and now I'm very positive my oil leak is coming from one of them).

Here is a complete kit for the change: http://www.amazon.com/Gates-TCKWP245...0366814&sr=1-1

It is $90 and includes the timing belt, water pump and tensioner w/o the tensioner bracket. The acc. belt tensioner pulley is about $30 at a parts store (seems a Gates one is $20 on Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/Gates-36156-Te.../dp/B001C97VNW). The two seals shouldn't be too much.

 

Wow so its a pretty big deal to replace the water pump then. This is unfortunate. Ugh...

 

How many miles are on the car?

 

It has 130,000 miles

 

The timing belt, water pump and tensioner (and those other things to save on labor costs and trouble for the next 100,000 miles) should be replaced at 105,000 miles. If the timing belt breaks, you are out an engine.

 

Ya I am aware this is a zero clearance motor and planned on doing that work next year. Was hoping to get the heater fixed inexpensively for now. My buddy will do it for me for next to nothing but with parts I'll probably still spend a couple hundred which isn't bad considering what a mechanic would probably charge. Just didn't want to spend that money yet. Oh well hopefully this will fix the heater problem and give me piece of mind on the timing belt...

 

Only $50 more now for the kit, plus the seals. You can do that other stuff later indeed. It's just easier to do it at once if you are paying someone.

 

Great news! We replaced the waterpump and that was the problem. It was missing two blades, two were bent completely down and only one blade was in the rich position. Now I have heat! We also replaced the timing belt, timing belt cover as the one on literally fell to pieces when taking it off, cam and crank seals and motor mount. Good thing I had this done because when taking the timing belt off we found that it had three holes and 4 tears in it. The car sounds better and heat works great!

 

Definitely a good catch! A broken belt or a seized water pump all lead to the same bad situation.

 

I have a 200 Dodge Neon (my baby). My current issue is when the heat is running the windows get fogged up and stay fogged up, however it does blow out heat. I put the defroster on w/ heat and it still does not clear the windhield or windows. I have topped off all fluids. I just replaced the radiator (by myself, what a beast) approx 2 months ago. Also the temp gauge goes slightly past the normal and just hangs out there until the car is turned off (doesn't normally do that). Prior to this, the temp needle would go to normal in warming up stage, then while driving (the needle) drops all the way to the bottom as if the car was never warmed up. Havent had problems like this... Pls advise. Thx