I have no idea, thats what the dealer told me. The dealer refused to help in a nut shell. Said the fluid needs to be changed every 7,500 miles apparently and checked once a year.

 

I would request (demand might be a bit harsh) supporting documentation for their 7500 mi/1 yr claims. looking through the maintenance schedules in the owners manual, and the service manual in Darth's sig., even under the export schedules, the ONLY mention of changing the transmission fluid is @ 60k Mi.(Schedule B), with no mention of a time frame, Checking the fluid level is one of the things it says the owner should do once a month. (can they prove you did/didn't?)

possibly time to take it up to the next link in the chain of command?

if it comes to it, do you have to pay the scrap man to take the car?
if it does, why not offer it up to top gear or some such for a future challenge, destruction, or something?

just a thought...

 

It's going to come down to your persistence. They just threw something out there to get you to go "oh well" and walk out of there...like you did. Take the owner's manual in, with specific page numbers and sections highlighted, and show them the part about the fluid being lifetime and only needing a fluid change @ 60,000 miles under the severe service schedule. You are going to have to push back twice as hard. This repair will cost them...a lot.

 

Top gear challange I like that one haha. No scrap dealers here will usually pay you a small amount for the car as it has value to them in parts. Another EX chrysler dealer who is local to me said he is 75% sure its the TCM being faulty. He as apparently changed a lot of them. Way to many variables to be honest. I have seen a stunning Honda Accord Executive being sold locally for a bargin price so I am at moment summing up options.

 

hey minty, completely out of curiosity, what engine does your neon have? here in the states, they all had the 2.0L, but the export models also had 1.6L, and a 1.8L options.
- From the Wikipedia page on the Chrysler neon:
"Besides the 2.0 L engine, it used the same Tritec 1.6 L unit found in the MINI prior to 2007. The 1.6 L unit is a variation of the 2.0 L SOHC engine designed by Chrysler and built by Tritec."
-and-
http://www.allpar.com/mopar/rover.html
So, if you get the trans sorted, and something pops up in the engine, there is the possibility, if you have the 1.6, that a mini dealer might be able to sort it.

On the Trans. front, if looking for a second opinion, there's this, from the Wikipedia page on the Chrysler 41te :
"Mitsubishi's Sportronic transmission was a modified version of the 41TE"
if there's a Mitsubishi dealer in your area...

 

The trick with the Mitsubishi transmission would be if it used the same sensors, that also output the same signals.

 

...and again and again...
I just want your opinion for my car before I go to upgrade it a little bit.
I have bayed a 3 month ago from Germany my Neon II with a little problem only: the light in baggage don’t work (since the lamp is ok.) The Neon is 2001 and is a USA version, have 54000km. I changed the motor oil in one service but I don’t trust the mechanic who do that (they change my original mineral oil with a semi-synthetic oil type Castrol 2000 or similar, but not Mobil. Also I’m not sure if this is original. However, since this a 2001 Yare care i changed also the water pomp, roller and timing belt (also the generator belt) to be sure that will not have further problem. Now I’m in Italy and care have the 61000km. Yesterday a go in the “limp” mode with a P1684 & P0700 code. VIN PLATE DECODING INFO: 1C3ASB6C61D115549 (if this is necessary). The battery maybe is OK (but a 2 weeks ago I forget the light ON and of course after that they don’t start – used booster to start auto-this regardless P1684 code, maby. Regardless the “limp” mode: it’s happening 3-4 times to clutch for a second but after that continue normal before yesterday. All other functions is OK: limiter not pass 4100 in “N”, and a second gear come up to 120km/h. So the power is OK. Really I need help but I don’t trust the Italian service (since they don’t know what is the MOPAR is in my region).
Yesterday I checked and reatached all masses near the PCM:
I dismantled all modules and polished from corrosion all masses when they is attached with ground. Left Connector of the PCM have broken and reattached with a some clips because the tooth cap of connector was broken. Inside this connector is was full of the some like black oil: I don’t know from where and how this is come, but polished with a contact spray. Ground of PDC is good with tester. The battery was recharged but he already have a more than 12V (was taken a little time). I dismantled also the “output sensor” – they was a petty good, but in one side have a black composed material, like oil who I polished. The tester said that is work (like all flowmeters ). I get the same values also for the “input sensor”, so do not need to be dismantled (it is a little difficult to dismantled input sensor since must to tire up the 2 tube plug around it).

When this morning start the machine the “check engine light” is gone for the first 5 min or 50 meters light and then reappeared with the “limp mode”.
Today I go to look also the PDC in bottom side and the solenoid pack that I supposed that is near by input sensor.
Any suggestions??
I will appreciate all info what I must to do quickly before my girlfriend send me in the streets pp
Best regards
P.S.: from Chrysler in Italy: the output sensor is arrived and cost only 36€!!! (from Mopar this price is 17$!, I don't wanna talk from anothers!). Guess if I must to buy from them the solenoid pack!

 

How was the P0700 code obtained? Was is it found with the instrument cluster trick, or a code reader? P0700 means that there are trouble codes stored, and they can only be pulled with a code reader.

The P1684 code is a silly code added my Chrysler/Dodge. Disregard it.

 

The code is obtained with "dance sequences" - in my Neon after that is shown itself a board display. The model is 2001 LE for Canada (133PS). 4 Speed gear.

Today I have the "Output sensor" from Chrysler. Cost is 36€ . Asked for a price for a solenoid pack: near 1000€ . Good start. Going to check this night masses and connectors - finally I will change the output sensor, but I don't think that is him, because multimeter says that all is OK: also the new one who bayed today from Chrysler have the same resistance - it's about 655 in all two positions, since this is a simple sensor(like all flowmeters).

IF anyone know where is located this temperature battery-sensor for my model let me know! I go to check also & him...
Also let me know if I wrong about solenoid pack with this picture (sorry for midnight picture):
http://sat-net.free.bg/files/Neon_20...ut_sensor2.JPG

 

The key dance will not show transmission trouble codes. You need to get a real code reader that hooks up to the OBDII port. That'll give you the code(s), and help narrow down the real problem.