Battery Problem, Please Help!!
#1
07-18-2012, 02:50 PM
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Battery Problem, Please Help!!
Hi guys! Well about 5 months ago, the car was sitting or around 2weeks, because I was out of college.... I go to turn it on and it's failed to start. Battery was dead. So I figured it was just the battery, so I went ahead and bought a new one, it worked for about 4 1/2 months fine. Then I had another 2weeks off, went back and the battery is dead. So something is obviously draining this bad boy, it's a 2001 Dodge Neon SE, does anyone have any idea where should I should start?
I am not a mechanic and the only thing I have done before, was change 2 fuel filters on a bmw 540 i 94...........
I really have no experience with cars at all, if you do guide me I am willingly myself to go through it though and fix where the drain is at.
Thank you all,
-Newman
I am not a mechanic and the only thing I have done before, was change 2 fuel filters on a bmw 540 i 94...........
I really have no experience with cars at all, if you do guide me I am willingly myself to go through it though and fix where the drain is at.Thank you all,
-Newman
#2
07-18-2012, 03:54 PM
Test your alternator and then use a test light on fuses when the car is off. With the exception for a couple of fuses that have constant power, the test light should either be off or have a faint glow (and only for certain things). If it lights up and that circuit shouldn't have power, that's a draw.
#3
07-18-2012, 04:17 PM
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Hey darthroush, thanks for the reply!
First, I think the alternating is running fine because it does charge it up when the car is running, it was working for about 5months no problems when I used the car every other day. But only when I didn't use the car for about 2 1/2 - 3 weeks is when it died, so is it safe to say that it has to be a drainage somewhere?
Okay, so what kind of unit/tester am I looking for @ the stores to buy it to test the voltages on the fuse box? Should I open up the fuse box and get that voltage tester that I will have to buy, and check each one to see where the drain is like you said? If so, where is the cheapest place to buy one these things, or do you think NAPA or somewhere will let me borrow it; if I lend them my credit/debit card for insurance? (free) until I am done with it ofcourse.
Thanks,
Newman
Btw, if anyone is around (Washington State) please pm me, as if you can help me with this, it will be greatly appreciated...........(If I get really stuck!) I am trying hard now to get more info.
First, I think the alternating is running fine because it does charge it up when the car is running, it was working for about 5months no problems when I used the car every other day. But only when I didn't use the car for about 2 1/2 - 3 weeks is when it died, so is it safe to say that it has to be a drainage somewhere?
Okay, so what kind of unit/tester am I looking for @ the stores to buy it to test the voltages on the fuse box? Should I open up the fuse box and get that voltage tester that I will have to buy, and check each one to see where the drain is like you said? If so, where is the cheapest place to buy one these things, or do you think NAPA or somewhere will let me borrow it; if I lend them my credit/debit card for insurance? (free) until I am done with it ofcourse.
Thanks,
Newman
Btw, if anyone is around (Washington State) please pm me, as if you can help me with this, it will be greatly appreciated...........(If I get really stuck!) I am trying hard now to get more info.
#4
07-18-2012, 06:51 PM
Get yourself an ammeter. Place it in series between the battery negative cable and the post. Make sure the key is out of the ignition, all lights and accessories are off. Anything over 50 milliamps is an unacceptable draw. Once you get a reading wait a few minutes to make sure all modules power down.
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07-18-2012, 08:47 PM
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Get yourself an ammeter. Place it in series between the battery negative cable and the post. Make sure the key is out of the ignition, all lights and accessories are off. Anything over 50 milliamps is an unacceptable draw. Once you get a reading wait a few minutes to make sure all modules power down.
one of these looks cheap?
Could I also use this to check the fuses too? As what darthroush was talking about?
Best Regards,
Newman
PS: Looking to buy this at a local store, as I need to fix this problem fast. I could just buy a new battery @ wal mart though and I guess I just cant leave my car idle for more than 1 week.... I guess it's my fault for being a lazy bumb at home :P
I am really looking at trying to find out the problem, I know spending 10$ on a anmeter is alot cheaper then paying for a 100$ diagnostic @ WALTZ
Last edited by Newman1992; 07-18-2012 at 08:50 PM.
#6
07-18-2012, 08:54 PM
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Looks like the cheapest I could fine is around 20$
http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Ca...752_0006393659
Dunno if you can see but it's priced at around 18$ if I go walk in @ my store @ NAPA........
Probably cheaper to just buy a battery right now @ wal mart (Cheap one) and just use the car every day so the alternator charges it up or something.
1 Question though guys, can I use the ammeter to find where the drainage is coming from? I mean I will only buy it, if it helps me solve my problem, I'll spend money on a new battery and the ammeter if it will help me find my problem. If not, mostly i'll just buy the battery............. ****..........
http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Ca...752_0006393659
Dunno if you can see but it's priced at around 18$ if I go walk in @ my store @ NAPA........
Probably cheaper to just buy a battery right now @ wal mart (Cheap one) and just use the car every day so the alternator charges it up or something.
1 Question though guys, can I use the ammeter to find where the drainage is coming from? I mean I will only buy it, if it helps me solve my problem, I'll spend money on a new battery and the ammeter if it will help me find my problem. If not, mostly i'll just buy the battery............. ****..........
#7
07-18-2012, 09:36 PM
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#8
07-18-2012, 09:51 PM
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Found this:
http://forums.neons.org/viewtopic.php?f=40&t=379672
"It could be any number of things. If you're any good with electronics and own a multimeter you can figure out for sure what it is. Disconnect the battery and use a multimeter to make the connection. Basically, one end of the meter to the battery and the other end to the battery cable. This battery terminal can not be connected to the battery when you do this. Set your meter to measure 10A. Don't turn the car or anything else on while your meter is hooked up or it will blow the internal fuse of the meter. Depending on the accuracy of your meter you'll be looking for a draw of about .2 amps or more. When you initially hook this up you'll activate some control modules. Let it sit for 10 minutes before you pay attention to the measurement. Once you have a measurement, start pulling fuses until you pull the fuse that eliminates the power draw. Once you find the fuse find out what it's for. Almost every circuit in a modern car is fused so this will almost certainly find the problem. Unplug components on that circuit until you find the problem. "
Pretty much I need to rent a multimeter or can I do this with a ammeter? What's the difference?
This seems like I Can pin-point the problem using the method above am I right? Thanks for the help!
Btw, we do have a after market radio and the lights on it keep flashing (and go out)............ could be a problem I bet?
This guy says "Start pulling accessory fuses until you find the drain. Most likely aftermarket radio that was improperly installed."
Lol might be same problem as me?
#9
07-18-2012, 11:13 PM
Aftermarket radios are pretty simple. You just either hook up the connector to the back of the radio, or you splice the wires and reconnect them. I would say if you radio is working properly, it most likely isn't an incorrectly installed radio.
A multimeter is $15 at autozone, I'm sure they rent them for free as well.
I'm not familiar with an ammeter. I'm assuming an ammeter is just used to see the draw of amps coming from the alternator. But if everything is stock, you won't have to worry about the amps.
A multimeter is $15 at autozone, I'm sure they rent them for free as well.
I'm not familiar with an ammeter. I'm assuming an ammeter is just used to see the draw of amps coming from the alternator. But if everything is stock, you won't have to worry about the amps.
#10
07-19-2012, 01:09 AM
Found this:
http://forums.neons.org/viewtopic.php?f=40&t=379672
Pretty much I need to rent a multimeter or can I do this with a ammeter? What's the difference?
This seems like I Can pin-point the problem using the method above am I right? Thanks for the help!
Btw, we do have a after market radio and the lights on it keep flashing (and go out)............ could be a problem I bet?
This guy says "Start pulling accessory fuses until you find the drain. Most likely aftermarket radio that was improperly installed."
Lol might be same problem as me?
http://forums.neons.org/viewtopic.php?f=40&t=379672
Pretty much I need to rent a multimeter or can I do this with a ammeter? What's the difference?
This seems like I Can pin-point the problem using the method above am I right? Thanks for the help!
Btw, we do have a after market radio and the lights on it keep flashing (and go out)............ could be a problem I bet?
This guy says "Start pulling accessory fuses until you find the drain. Most likely aftermarket radio that was improperly installed."
Lol might be same problem as me?
Something like this one: