2000 Neon JERKING.
#21
If the problem is fixed, you would feel your car shifts to 1st, 2nd, 3rd, and then the TCC is engaged. That will drop the rpm to about 200. It feel just like another shift.
Edit: I mean the RPM will drop lower. About 200 lower.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Edit: I mean the RPM will drop lower. About 200 lower.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Last edited by cheapez; 02-03-2013 at 06:15 PM.
#23
#26
Update for anyone who is still watching this thread:
I disconnected and cleaned my tcc really well, put some dielectric grease on it and check my ohm readings. One side of my wire harness was hardly putting out anything so I followed my wire and found that my neutral safety switch harness was completely mangled. The white wire only had three copper threads left intact and the rest were frayed off. I had to cut the harness off and replace it. Couldn't find any more exposed wires. Didn't think that would fix my problem because although the neutral safety switch wires and the tcc wires do meet up, I didn't think this would do anything. But, my car is now running much better. It still wants to jerk when I'm around 15-20 mph but it does one rpm spike and then evens out. Could i still have an issue going on? My actual solenoid was good for ohms but my harness read 66 on one prong and i can't remember the exact read for the other, but it was significantly lower. Any ideas on what's going on? I hate electricity, it confuses me!
I disconnected and cleaned my tcc really well, put some dielectric grease on it and check my ohm readings. One side of my wire harness was hardly putting out anything so I followed my wire and found that my neutral safety switch harness was completely mangled. The white wire only had three copper threads left intact and the rest were frayed off. I had to cut the harness off and replace it. Couldn't find any more exposed wires. Didn't think that would fix my problem because although the neutral safety switch wires and the tcc wires do meet up, I didn't think this would do anything. But, my car is now running much better. It still wants to jerk when I'm around 15-20 mph but it does one rpm spike and then evens out. Could i still have an issue going on? My actual solenoid was good for ohms but my harness read 66 on one prong and i can't remember the exact read for the other, but it was significantly lower. Any ideas on what's going on? I hate electricity, it confuses me!
#27
Brittany,
Your car has other issues, that is why it jerks around 15-20 mph.
The TCC is only engaged above 40 mph, or so to lower the engine rpm so, you get better gas mileage. It does not cause any trouble if you don't fix it, but you do want to fix it because you have been complaining about poor gas mileage.
If there is any thing wrong with the neutral safety switch, you can't start your car up.
Does your car normally jerk around 15-20 mph? Does it jerks when it shifts gears? Do you have other trouble codes? Tell me anything that seem wrong with your car.
I'm trying to determine if the problem is with the engine, or with the transmission then maybe I can guess what the problem is.
Will see if I can find more information for you about the TCC, so you can fix it by yourself.
I still think the wiring harness, and plug cause the problem (It's an electrical problem).
Your car has other issues, that is why it jerks around 15-20 mph.
The TCC is only engaged above 40 mph, or so to lower the engine rpm so, you get better gas mileage. It does not cause any trouble if you don't fix it, but you do want to fix it because you have been complaining about poor gas mileage.
If there is any thing wrong with the neutral safety switch, you can't start your car up.
Does your car normally jerk around 15-20 mph? Does it jerks when it shifts gears? Do you have other trouble codes? Tell me anything that seem wrong with your car.
I'm trying to determine if the problem is with the engine, or with the transmission then maybe I can guess what the problem is.
Will see if I can find more information for you about the TCC, so you can fix it by yourself.
I still think the wiring harness, and plug cause the problem (It's an electrical problem).
Last edited by cheapez; 02-03-2013 at 06:15 PM.
#28
In my opinion, if you have oil in any of the spark plugs, you should replace the valve cover seals, which is a very easy thing to do. If two spark plugs have oil on them, that would definitely cause ignition issues if they aren't checked out. If they have oil on them, also do the plug wires, as they might be fouled.
When I changed my plugs in my '05, one of the plug boots' insulation/rubber snapped off the boot, and preventing the new wire to seat properly. Thinking nothing of it, I installed new wires on the other three cylinders and left the old one on that one cylinder. It started up just fine, but it bucked and jerked going down the road.
That might be the problem with your Neon. If the problem doesn't go away, try replacing the valve cover seals. The kit is only $20 and it can be done in about 30 mintues if you know what you're doing.
When I changed my plugs in my '05, one of the plug boots' insulation/rubber snapped off the boot, and preventing the new wire to seat properly. Thinking nothing of it, I installed new wires on the other three cylinders and left the old one on that one cylinder. It started up just fine, but it bucked and jerked going down the road.
That might be the problem with your Neon. If the problem doesn't go away, try replacing the valve cover seals. The kit is only $20 and it can be done in about 30 mintues if you know what you're doing.
#29
The jerking happens when the car shifts to second gear. Most of the time it won't shift properly and jerk between 1500 and 2000 rpm until I either slow down or speed up. Trying to coast around 25 mph it will not quit jerking. My car seems to be doing better after fixing my wiring though? Why would this be? It did heighten the ohms coming out of my tcc, so maybe it did help with that issue. The only error codes I have on my car are the tcc code and also one for my battery being disconnected in the past fifty starts. Nothing else is wrong with my car other than the bad gas mileage. I'm pretty sure it isn't thr spark plugs though because i did replace them and the wiring and made sure everything was clean. If anything, the jerking problem got worse but my idle evened out.
#30
There are two wires to the TCC solenoid plug.
One wire is with dark blue/white stripes, and the other wire is with orange/black stripes.
The dark blue/white should have 12 volts on it when the ignition is on.
The orange/black wire should have less than 5 ohms resistance.
If the problem is fixed, the trouble code will goes away. You would feel the TCC engaged above 40 mph. It feel just like another shift.
1st gear - 2nd gear - 3rd gear - and then the TCC is engaged.
Additional information:
Dark blue/white wire is supplied with 12 volts through fuse #10 (If you don't get more than 10 volts on this wire, fuse #10 maybe blown).
Orange/black wire goes to the PCM (Powertrain Control Module). The PCM controls the TCC by grounding this wire.
Fuse #10 is in the cabin
One wire is with dark blue/white stripes, and the other wire is with orange/black stripes.
The dark blue/white should have 12 volts on it when the ignition is on.
The orange/black wire should have less than 5 ohms resistance.
If the problem is fixed, the trouble code will goes away. You would feel the TCC engaged above 40 mph. It feel just like another shift.
1st gear - 2nd gear - 3rd gear - and then the TCC is engaged.
Additional information:
Dark blue/white wire is supplied with 12 volts through fuse #10 (If you don't get more than 10 volts on this wire, fuse #10 maybe blown).
Orange/black wire goes to the PCM (Powertrain Control Module). The PCM controls the TCC by grounding this wire.
Fuse #10 is in the cabin
Last edited by cheapez; 02-03-2013 at 06:15 PM.