I recently was given a dodge neon from a family member at the scrap value. im goign to give it a few dollars to see if i can get it ready to use as a commuter.

from what ive gathered off the web, its stuck in limp mode due to a bad shift solenoid and/or bad in/out speed sensors.

i havent been able to pick the car up (not until saturday) so getting more info isnt possible.


this is the vin
1B3ES56C82Dxxxxxx

from what i have on paper work its the
2.0L 4 Cyl SOHC 16V SMPI
Transmission - 4-Spd. Automatic
is the 2002 an SXT model? does that impact parts or do i use standard BASE model parts? all ive seen listed was the Base, SE, RT, ACR, and SE. No idea what any of those mean.


I think its the 41TE tansmission. Anyway to find that out with out looking for a stamp on the housing?

And my main questions

What is the part number for the shift solenoid and the speed sensors?
Is it the same part number sensor for both?
any link to the best prices? ( i know rockauto is a deal sometimes).

thanks
mike

 

 

lemme see what I can dig up right quick I know it's a cheap 20.00 part on the outside of the transmission, sometimes the wires/plug can get croded up and it will cause issues.. did you do the key dance to see what code it was giving you?

Duralast/Sensor - Transmission Speed
For your 2002 Dodge Neon 2.0L SFI SOHC 4cyl
Price: $16.99



Part Number: SU1018

 

The SXT will draw parts from the SXT/SE pool. It's not the R/T or SRT-4 motor, so just use SXT or SE.

 

know if the speed sensor is the same part number for both the IN and the OUT?

 

They are different.

 

This car only had 59,750 miles on it. So to me this was worth it to try and fix it myself.
I got this car and it wouldnt shift out of 2nd. The on-off thing showed code p0700. A cheap hand held scanner showed p0700 and p0750. The previous owner had also taken it to a "shop" and they had said "its a $1700 repair. It needs a new shift solenoid. Might as well get a new tranny or just junk it"
Thats how i got it for $300. Junk value.

Anyway, after searching the internet I decided Id try the speed sensors first. $25 each at my local dodge dealer and he had them in stock the day I called. No change in status for the car after replacing them. So i went to get a Duralast brand shift solenoid ($150). I coulda got one at my local dealer for $205 but might aswell save $50 right?

So i put that in an wouldnt ya know it.....shifts like a champ! The check engine light also went out with out any need for reprogramming or anything. I took for a 5 min drive checked for leaks, then for a 30 min drive and all seems good.

So this is the method to change the speed sensors on a 2002 Dodge Neon SXT
Im going to list the size wrenches and sockets I used. Take it for what its worth because you may not have factory (or i might not) sized fittings.

Remove battery cable from the battery 10mm

REMOVING THE AIR BOX
Loosen the 5 philips head screws that hold down the top of the air box and set the lid aside.
Remove the air filter - it pops right off
Remove the nut holding down the air box to the fender - 10mm
Remove the bolt holding down the air box to the radiator support - 10mm
Thats all that holds the box in place. There are a bunch of sensors and plugs connected to it or you could just take it out. But there is no noeed to remove all that. Just remove what i list below and flip the air box out of the engine compartment and do what you gotta do.

DISCONNECTING THE AIR BOX

Disconnect the plug that goes to the elbow next to the fender - Flat blade screw drive might help. Dont force it.
Remove the elbow and set it aside.
Disconnect the two vacuum hoses. Just hold the rubber boot and pull them apart. Mine were dry rotten so i might order new ones but they are still intact.
Disconnect the vacuum lines from the plastic support bracket that is connected to the radiator hose. It just opens. A flat blade might help. Dont force it.

Using an 8mm socket with extensions, losen the hose clamp on the air intake (accordian hose) where it connects to the air box and seperate the two.
You should be able to flip the air box out of the way with out removing any of the other fittings. It will give you plenty of access and be a lot less work. If you want it totally out of the way, thats up to you.

REMOVING THE SPEED SENSORS

First thing is to get a drain pan and some engine degreaser and spray/wire the heck out of anyting you see that was unaccessable below the air box. There is going to be a lot of dirt and grease and grime you dont want getting nto any holes to the tranny. I got a few cans of the stuff from the parts store. Sprayed it down, let it soak sprayed it, brushed it, sprayed it. Have some shop rags to wipe down what you can. Dont wire brush any plasticfittings or wires. Just the metal. The pan catches all the crap that drips. Lay down a wide area of card board if you do this in a driveway. The cleaner you get it the easier it will be to see a leak in the future and less likely you are to get dirt in the holes.

The speed sensors are literally right there when you move the air box.

Remove the electrical connector from the each of the sensors A flat blade might help. Dont force it or pry too hard on the locking tabs.

It takes a 1" socket or 1" wrench to remove the sensor closer to the fender. Just losen it and remove it by hand. Its a plastic housing so it should come right out.

The other sensor can not be done with a wrench unless you remove the two transmission fluid hoses. There is no need for that if you have tools.

Using a 1" socket, a 2" extension and a universal joint on a 1/2" ratchet you can losen and then remove the sensor. You can fit the sensor right into the socket and by using the universal/extension slide it under the two tranny hoses.

Installation is the opposite. Dont over tighten the sensors. they are plastic.

REMOVING THE SOLENOID
follow the steps above.

If you plan on replacing both the sensors and the solenoid, wait to reinstall the sensor below the hoses. You need to fit a socket in between the hoses to get the solenoid out.

Remove the bolt holding the connector onto the solenoid. 8mm with extensions
Disconnect the connector and set it out of the way. It just lifts out of the solenoid.
Remove the 3 bolts holding the solenoid to the transmission housing. If you have the new solenoid you will see there is only three bolts on the top of it. You will need some extensions and a 10mm socket.
Remove the solenoid.
Thats it.

My solenoid was really stuck in place. I used a small bottle jack with a piece of wood to push up on the edge of the solenoid to "break it loose". There isnt much room to fit something to pry it up. I was actually lifting the engine with the bottle jack but after repositioning it a few times it broke free.
Dont let dirt fall into the holes that become exposed when you remove the solenoid.
Remove all of the old gasket material. I used a cheap-o paint scraper i had but make sure you dont gouge the metal. take your time, scrape slow and dont let the pieces go into the holes.
When you take your new solenoid out of the box to install it, stick your finger in a NEW bottle of tranny fluid and smear a little the fluid on the gasket. You just want to get it wet so it sticks in place. Do this to the solenoid side first, then the tranny side.

Installtion of the solenoid is the same in reverse.
Gently put the solenoid in place using the dowels to line it up. Start to thread each of the bolts before tightening any of them down. Once you have them all snug, torque them according to the manual. Install the solenoid connector and the bolt to hold it down.
Install the speed sensor and the connector for it.
Reinstall the air box and filter.
Reconnect the battery. And start it up. Check for leaks

If youre going to do the transmission fluid/filter change im sure there is a write up on that already.
its just remove the pan bolts (there is no drain plug)
i remove all but two bolts on the radiator side. Those two I loosen half way and then pry on the rear side of the pan to slowly begin the draining of the fluid into my catch pan. That way when i feel its empty enough to NOT cause a mess I remove the front two.
Scrap off all old gasket from the pan and from the transmission side. Dont gouge it.
Wipe out the pan with rags and clean off the magnet of matal shavings.
The filter just snaps in place and the old one just snaps righ tout. make sure the O-Ring came out when you took the old filter out and that the new filter has a new one in place. then snap it in. It only goes one way.
Same with the pan gasket, lubricate it with fresh fluid and install it.

hope this helps.

As with all repairs. Use the proper jack, jack stands and wheel chocks.
Use the proper gloves, eye protection and tools.
Nothing makes a job harder than NOT having the right tools. Get the right tools!

this is a list of what I used - there may be more im not thinking of at the moment.
3/8" and 1/2" drive ratchets, various extensions, 1/2" drive universal
8mm socket
10mm socket
1" socket
Philips and Flat head screw drivers
engine degeaser (2 cans)
rags
drain pan
gasket scraper
funnel
ATF 4 fluid 4 qts
Autozone parts
TCS74 --solenoid
917-601 sensor or dodge part number 04800878
917-602 sensor or dodge part number 04800879
Transmission filter and transmission pan gasket replacement optional

Total price for this
fluid $5.99 x 4
sensors $50
solenoid $150
random things $20
So for around $250 and around 2 hours of your time you can fix limp mode





2002 Dodge Neon Limp Mode Check Engine Light CEL p0700 p0750 Scannner Code Shift Solenoid Speed Sensor Transmission Shift Module Fluid Flush Filter Gasket

 

Thanks for the procedure, should i do both the solenoid and the sensors?

 

to me is was worth a shot to replace the senors and see what happens. i went with OEM sensors cause ive heard aftermarket can be junk. it didnt fix my problem so i changed the solenoid. you have to remove the sensor the get off the solenoid anyway so if you want to do it all at once go for it. i did use an aftermarket solenoid cause i havent heard anythign bad about that specific part being non-oem