I just wanted some ppls input on the different kinds of oils you can get and which brands may be the best. Also i wanted to know at wat mileage can you use synthetics up to untill you have to go to a blend or something.

Is synthetic worth the prices?

 

If this topic interests you I would spend some time at BITOG (bobistheoilguy.com) as they hash that out all the time.

General consensus is that most modern dino's SM/GF-4 specification can go 5000K on an oil drain.
Good synthetics can go 10K+ but ultimately require UOA (used oil analysis) to be sure how long your favorite oil will go. Amsoil seems to go furthest of the most popular. Mobil1 seems not to be doing as good since changing base oils.

Semi-synthetics probably about 7500 but several posts of Mobil 7500 have not been to good at 5K.

For wear 3M/3K(5K/6M not very far behaind at all) dino is just as good as 10K/1YR Synthetic for the most part. Sythetics in cold climates are very good for cold startup and a 0W-30 is just about ideal (0W-20 for 2K5 models) heck even great down south. Remember that oil gets thicker when cold. Heck at 70F it is several order of magnitude thicker than at operating temp. So a 0W-XX is generally easier pumping and actually closer to grade than a 5W-XX. One exception would be 0W-30 Castrol Syntec which border on 40Wt not 20Wt like most 30wt oils. So it still thicker than 99% of all other 5W-XX oils at 70F.

As far as brands you need to decide for yourself really. As far as DINO is really concerned you could pick by which bottle makes you most warm and fuzzy or price or brand. Hey I like Juan Montoya so I now use Havoline. Whoopee, although a cult favorite on BITOG that shows marginally better results than most other dinos (although in noise readings of a UOA).

For Synthetics for a Group III(base oil actually used in the F1 Ferrari) oil Pennzoil Platinum is one of the best. Mobil1 is close behind. If you go out of your way to get what is considered the best right now Amsoil or German Castrol Syntec(0W-30 made in Germany). Those will offer longer drain intervals.

Now for racing REDLINE and forget about it. (tends to clean the crap out of stuff and first 3 or 4 drain interval UOA could not be so pretty but it will settle out to GORGEOUS. Abuse that stuff I dare you. Only thing it won't like is super long drain intervals say over 10K.

 

Hey I have a question... what kind of huge differences are there between the 2004 and earlier models compared to the 2005? It was my understanding that the main difference between say a 2004 Neon and a 2005 Neon was NOTHING. I've heard a few people say "oh, the bearing tolerances are tighter," but I've also heard a few engineers tell me that there is practically no difference at all... that the only reason that DCX (and Ford as well) even suggested running 0W-20 synthetics and blends was because they were getting tired of people running 5W-30 and 10W-30 because the dealerships were paying out the butt for warranty work on the eaten' up catalytic converters.

That being said, I've tried 0W-20 and 5W-20 in my '04 SXT, and have noticed slightly better idle and performance (including MPG)... would this really destroy my engine quicker if I ran Pennzoil or Mobil1 Full Synthetic in my car instead of the 0W-30? At operating temperature, the cst differences between the 0W-20 and 0W-30 are pretty minimal.

 

So, does anyone here have an answer tomy lastquestion or is this a test-and-see thing that someone will have to try first?

 

Basically your right nothing is different. Ford went back to 1993 on some of their engines for 5W-20. If you were to break down the classifications to indidual number say 5W-29 and 5W-31 you would find that the typical 5W-20 is about a 5W-28 and the typical 30 is a 5W-31. Very minor differences. No biggie for most engines. Their are exceptions.

The Cat problem is addressed by SM/GF-4 specifications reducing sulfer compounds used for zinc. Sulfer and Zinc poisened the cats. So those were reduced alot in the latest specs. Also why the flat tappet engines like a SBC have problems seating cams with it. They use other stuff like calcium and Havoline uses lots of Moly at least until their latest depsoit shield oil which is now out. Have not seen analysis on it yet to know. So modern 5W-30 and 5W-20 both address the poisoning of the Cats.

The fun part is most 5W-30 end up as 5W-20 in the middle of the oil drain interval anyway so take it for what it is worth. The 5W-20 breaks down a lot less.

Have fun.

 

I run a blend in my 01 neon just because I have exhaust. When I add more goodies under the hood I'm switching to full synthetic. Also prefferablly I like Castrol. And I just change every 3k.

 

Thanks ewetho... good info to know. I always thought my car liked the 5W-20 but I changed it out for the 5W-30 again because I feared that I was boning the devil by running with the thinner lube.

And djmagic... please explain to me why having an aftermarket exhaust would require running a blend or full synthetic motor oil? Just curious... I mean, over 99% of the vehicles out there don't create enough power from an ae exhaust to require beefing up the internals... ?

 

At our power levels the best answer I have is ???????????????? I DUNNO SCOOB?????????????

Really unless you have a Corvette without a oil cooler or a turbo you do not NEED sythetic or a blend. However all modern SM/GF-4 oils are Group II which used to be called semi-synthetic which is why ConocoPhillips decided to drop conventional 5W-20 and 5W-30 completely heck even 10W-30 I think. Only conventional they have left is 10W-40 and up.

So i you run a modern oil you in essence do to the requirements of the specificatin API SM and ILSAC GF-4 are running what could be called a semi-synthetic. So rest easy have a good laugh and go on.

If you live in a cold climate the benefits of ease of start up and warm up of a 0W-20 or 0W-30 would be greatly beneficial to you. you actually get those benefits (saves fuel) even in the South but to a lesser extent. Heck even GPIII synthetic 5W-30 would help on the cold days.

Hope it all helps.

Oh and yes according to MANY UOA (Used Oil Analysis) report even WALMART SuperTech 5W-30 conventional or synthetic does just fine on 5K oil changes and even using that $2.25 SuperTech filter. Even though it is recycled oil in some areas(others not). As long as it is SM/GF-4 your fine with 3-5K change intervals. Any longer go synthetic.

Find the brand that gives you a warm fuzzy for what ever reason rejoice in YOUR choice and be happy. For down the road motors on long interval I like Amsoil, 3K changes Havoline but those are simply my choices not necessarily any better than yours. OH and any crap on PENNZOIL being a sludge causer goes back to the 70's and should be laughed at in with all modern formulations.

 

I think I meant that I just have exhaust. Personally I think blends or full allow the car to be pushed more performance wise.

 

Semi-sythetics or blends ARE A WASTE OF MONEY.

True synthetics are Group IV not Group III oils. True synthetics offer superior cleaning and lubrication. The only true synthetics out in the US market are Mobil1, Pennzoil Platinum, Redline and Amsoil.