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I think I'm going to use an aam 14 bolt for the rear from a gm truck. I just need to verify the width is close, but the junkyards I've been to so far won't let me in the yard to look around. I originally wanted a Dana 70 with disc brakes but they are impossible to find. I'm also getting the bigger t case as well. It's a summer project.
Ok cool. The junkyards around here have no problem with letting me walk around, maybe it's a regional thing. Be sure to do a thread on it. I'm interested in seeing how the GM axle swap turns out.
I'm wanting to do an axle swap in the future (T-Case too), but it won't be for a year or 2...
Ok cool. The junkyards around here have no problem with letting me walk around, maybe it's a regional thing. Be sure to do a thread on it. I'm interested in seeing how the GM axle swap turns out.
I'm wanting to do an axle swap in the future (T-Case too), but it won't be for a year or 2...
We have both types of junk yards around here. Some where you can go roam and just bring back what you want to buy and another one where you tell them what you want off the vehicle and they get it for you. It also has a sign that reads something like "Our dogs can get to the fence in 3 seconds, think you can run that fast?" On the gate as you are leaving.
I used L-Track airline tiedown rails, plated steel rivnuts, and SS bolts.
The process;
Center the section or rail, mark and cut to length.
Position and center punch the end holes... I used a transfer punch to get an accurate center of the hole.
Drill the initial hole undersize... the reason will be apparent shortly.
Dimple the hole to allow the head of the rivnut to be flush with the surrounding panel.
Dimpling will stretch the first hole, so now you can drill the finished hole size.
Hit the hole with some touchup paint, then insert and set the rivnut.
Repeat the process at the other end, then bolt the track in place.
Now center punch the other holes.
Remover the track and repeat the rivnut installation process... one every 4".
Secure the track with the SS screws and tighten.
Test fit a tiedown... yup, looks the part... good for 400lbs in any direction.
Oh, note the strategic painting of the bedliner... right up to the inside of the stake pockets, and the rail is just wide enough to cover the pockets.
Now repeat down both sides... I managed to get the holes to miss the front stake pockets, but the back one I needed a plate with the rivnut across the pocket hole... the plate is held with the screw for the black plastic end cap.
Nicely done! I enjoy seeing your work. When's the engine build?
It's being quietly planned in the background, but the original is still running fine, so I'm finding it hard to pull the trigger on that kind of $$$, when it's not necessary.
When I see signs of the original getting tiered (burning oil, low compression, etc), I'll likely get a donor block for a 390 stroker project.
I like lots and lots and lots more too............................................... .........................
The side pieces were 100" lengths... I used 78" leaving me enough to put a short piece in each corner of the bed (in front and behind the wheel arch).
I should be good to strap in/down just about anything ;-)