The real trick is going to be finding where the noise is actually coming from. If you just let the truck roll a bit, and stab the brakes, do you get the noise?

 

I can get it to pop with very little roll. I was thinking my next plan would be to lay on the floor and have my dad roll at me and slam the brakes. I've been thinking for a while about getting a mount cam for such things too. The first time I thought it was my original (before I fixed it twice) hub/rotor setup that was doing it or a bad ball joint, but I've been through all of that and doesn't seem to be a problem. I'll take a look at the pads and caliper for signs like you suggest. The fact that it went away on its own is what has me stumped .

 

Well, it appears it is the inner pad. I saw about a shy 1/16" gap so I tapped the end of a wood shim that kinda splintered apart in there and tested it out. It didn't pop going forward and it was quieter a couple timers and no sound a couple other times in reverse.

 

Wood isn't going to last long.

Are the rotors warped? Guides clean for the calipers, and pads? I like to put a little sil-glide on surfaces where metal parts are going to be rubbing together. (it's a lubricant, available at most any parts store.)

 

The rotors I believe are true being brand new (I know not always the case). Guide pins and contact points where lubed a while back when new calipers where put on. I think lubing the contact points again isn't a bad idea though, since I may have been a little light with it.

Gonna pull the wood chip out of there and see if I can get the pop to come back then drive a new shim in and see if I gets quiet again.

 

Put a new exhaust hanger on today since one died of dry rot and celebrated 22 years of ownership Thursday.

 

Finished my summer road trip last night. Drove from Seattle to MN to Denver and back. Total of 3938 miles. Truck performed flawlessly and saw between 14-17 mpg. Up to 256k now.

 

I love reliable vehicles.

 

Getting ready to haul the RV out for a quick vacation with the wife.

 

Well, I torqued my drivers side cam bolt down tight (1/4 turn maybe) and the pop is gone. A long time ago I had started to pull my control arms to change the bushings, but didn't get very far because I discovered the exhaust has to be disconnected from the engine and possibly further to get the back bolt out of the upper control arm. I stopped and tightened the front bolt back up. The cam bolt was seated back where it was originally. My guess is that I didn't tighten it enough, and over time and potholes the cam moved and wasn't seating tight, hen it tightened again to where it didn't pop, then loosened again. Sound possible or just crazy? Either way, I have new bushings and gonna get new bolts all the way around when its not so hot out. I'm gonna guess the controi arm will still be alright where the bolt goes through.