Noticed strange behavior from the brake pedal today while on an incline, pedal was down all the way and then a slight noise and the pedal dropped, repeated that 4 times all during the same hold on the pedal.

Brakes feel good, no visible fluid loss either.

Strange.

 

This was hilarious, especially the Murican stereotyping.

 

Master cyld or brake booster, the pedal should not go past its normal travel, if it has something is up.

 

I'll check things out tomorrow, at least what I can anyway....

 

The basic test procedure is in the 2001 FSM page 300.

C/P to save you looking for the tests.

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - MASTER
CYLINDER/POWER BOOSTER

(1) Start engine and check booster vacuum hose
connections. A hissing noise indicates vacuum leak.
Correct any vacuum leak before proceeding.

(2) Stop engine and shift transmission into Neutral.

(3) Pump brake pedal until all vacuum reserve in
booster is depleted.

(4) Press and hold brake pedal under light foot
pressure. The pedal should hold firm, if the pedal
falls away master cylinder is faulty (internal leakage).

(5) Start engine and note pedal action. It should
fall away slightly under light foot pressure then hold
firm. If no pedal action is discernible, power booster,
vacuum supply, or vacuum check valve is faulty. Proceed
to the POWER BOOSTER VACUUM TEST.

(6) If the POWER BOOSTER VACUUM TEST
passes, rebuild booster vacuum reserve as follows:
Release brake pedal. Increase engine speed to 1500
rpm, close the throttle and immediately turn off ignition
to stop engine.

(7) Wait a minimum of 90 seconds and try brake
action again. Booster should provide two or more vacuum
assisted pedal applications. If vacuum assist is
not provided, booster is faulty.

POWER BOOSTER VACUUM TEST

(1) Connect vacuum gauge to booster check valve
with short length of hose and T-fitting (Fig. 54).

(2) Start and run engine at curb idle speed for one
minute.

(3) Observe the vacuum supply. If vacuum supply
is not adequate, repair vacuum supply.

(4) Clamp hose shut between vacuum source and
check valve.

(5) Stop engine and observe vacuum gauge.

(6) If vacuum drops more than one inch HG (33
millibars) within 15 seconds, booster diaphragm or
check valve is faulty.

POWER BOOSTER CHECK VALVE TEST

(1) Disconnect vacuum hose from check valve.

(2) Remove check valve and valve seal from
booster.

(3) Use a hand operated vacuum pump for test.

(4) Apply 15-20 inches vacuum at large end of
check valve (Fig. 55).

 

I bought some used BF Goodrich 265/75/16 tires for 100 today to put on the steely 8 lugs so I can finish my axle swap over thanksgiving break

4.10 Dana 60s here I come!

 

 

Lol. That was much better than the Volvo commercial.

 

 

I noticed DodgeDude's title under his name says Banned. When did that happen and what exactly pushed him over the edge?