Brakes
I am in desperate need of new front rotors. The Baer Decelerotors that have served well for the past 6 years and 70,000 miles are in horrible condition, but still stop well. I've already decided on what pads I want. But I would like some advice on rotors. As said, my Baer rotors have served me well, but they dont seem to be made for our trucks anymore. I have looked at these EBC Sport rotors and like what I see. Once I get driving on my own (next week), this truck will have a trailer behind it 50% of the time and the rest will be driven like a bat out of hell, so I need some good brakes that will last a long while while giving good performance.
And I was wondering what was the best way to adjust the rear drums?
Also, Are these Spicer u-joints the correct ones for the front axle? I am also in desperate need of u-joints before winter and dont want to order the wrong ones.
http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/p477...rsal_join.html
Thanks!
And I was wondering what was the best way to adjust the rear drums?
Also, Are these Spicer u-joints the correct ones for the front axle? I am also in desperate need of u-joints before winter and dont want to order the wrong ones.
http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/p477...rsal_join.html
Thanks!
Last edited by PurplDodge; Aug 18, 2011 at 05:50 PM.
Just go with some good quality stock replacement rotors. The slotted/drilled fellers don't do anything good for you, and just shorten the life of the rotors. (and lighten your wallet REALLY well.)
The pads are what make the difference. Good pads and stock rotors will be just as good, if not better than, good pads, and expensive rotors..... the stockers will last longer too.....
The pads are what make the difference. Good pads and stock rotors will be just as good, if not better than, good pads, and expensive rotors..... the stockers will last longer too.....
those are the correct u-joints.
if you want greaseable, Precision makes a heavy duty one for about that same price.
adjust the rears by exposing the star wheel from the backside. remove the knockout if required and replace with a rubber plug when done. spin the tire while adjusting the star wheel. tighten until the tire won't turn any more. then back it off to where it turns with no resistance. it might still have a little tick or scrub sound. that's ok.
if you want greaseable, Precision makes a heavy duty one for about that same price.
adjust the rears by exposing the star wheel from the backside. remove the knockout if required and replace with a rubber plug when done. spin the tire while adjusting the star wheel. tighten until the tire won't turn any more. then back it off to where it turns with no resistance. it might still have a little tick or scrub sound. that's ok.
those are the correct u-joints.
if you want greaseable, Precision makes a heavy duty one for about that same price.
adjust the rears by exposing the star wheel from the backside. remove the knockout if required and replace with a rubber plug when done. spin the tire while adjusting the star wheel. tighten until the tire won't turn any more. then back it off to where it turns with no resistance. it might still have a little tick or scrub sound. that's ok.
if you want greaseable, Precision makes a heavy duty one for about that same price.
adjust the rears by exposing the star wheel from the backside. remove the knockout if required and replace with a rubber plug when done. spin the tire while adjusting the star wheel. tighten until the tire won't turn any more. then back it off to where it turns with no resistance. it might still have a little tick or scrub sound. that's ok.
Thanks for the info on the drum adjustment. I will try it this week.
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Went ahead and bought these:
http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/sk...gs+Best+Seller
$114 with free shipping and $10 coupon...Thats cheaper than Chinese rotors from NAPA.
http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/sk...gs+Best+Seller
$114 with free shipping and $10 coupon...Thats cheaper than Chinese rotors from NAPA.






