I was not aware that you could get PPG in a rattle can. So I learned something. If it is a good PPG, it should do well. I was assuming some generic Krylon or other rattle can, as I am sure most of us may have thought.

I plan to use PPG on mine. PPG has a low end, medium, and best grades of paints. Most collision shops will use the mid raonge or lower, unless you are looking for a custom paint job, which they will upgrade and charge accordingly. My next deal is there is no PPG distributor here in this small town. Gotta drive 60 or so miles each way, so I have to have a list ready.

And now the more I look at it - is that a Hooter's orange or Home Depot orange?

 

Hoot.

 

Thats fine but I'll just mention a few more FACTS to back up what I'm saying...
Any autopaint that comes in a regular spray can it NOT the same paint as any of the modern auto paints sold today.... modern paints are usually acrylic or urethane based and have activaters or hardners to make them "kick" and cure (even the cheaper single stage ones with the integrated clearcoat) They have to be mixed right before spraying with a large compressor driven HVLP or conventional paint gun. There are also some newer water based paints that are very pricey..
You likely bought enamel (just like the stuff rustoleum sells at home depot in quarts) enamels and lacquer paints arent used anymore (and havent been for a long long time) on vehicles because they are inferior in almost every way to modern auto finishes....when they put it in an aerosol can it usually has to be thinned out with propellants. which means it takes a lot more to paint the car.
Lacquer (what they used on cars up until the early 60's) and enamel paint is what you find on the shelf at autozone for temporary repairs or repainting a fender on a budget... It is not what autobody shops or auto manufacturers use for that matter.
Your dodge came from the factory with a multi stage urethane paint finish and you cant get that type of paint in cans.
I think It looks great and you did a good job.... but for a truck that sees the real use and abuse they were designed for it wont hold up anywhere near as well as even the cheaper single stage acrylic paints Maaco uses if you do the prep work...
If your truck ever does get reapainted it will have to be sanded to fully remove all that enamel and sealed before any commercial auto finish is applied or it will turn into a wrinkled mess... I dealt with this first hand from "others repair work" and I have only painted two of my cars at home myself.

So just to recap, YES any paint that comes out of an aerosol paint can IS inferior to the types that HAVE to be sprayed from a real paint gun... Go back and ask your PPG dealer about that.... My local paint dealer wanted $900 a quart for the same exact type of paint I got for $400 for a gallon of chameleon which also included a gallon of black basecoat and a gallon of the clear to go over the chameleon along with all the activators, thinners and hardeners... Those guys must be on commision In my opinion.

 

So if Im painting with a ten dollar harbor freight paint gun (should I get a nicer one) what type of paint and how much do you think it'll cost me to reprint the whole truck?

 

thats what I used to paint my corvette....I bought a $60 kobalt gun but it didnt work as well as the harbor freight one which actually got great reviews..(its a clone of a high end gun). I bought thier pro line guns for detail and future work. yes they make better guns but you can get a great finish with the cheap HVLP purple one just rent a big enough compressor if you dont have one...thats important.
you can get quality one gallon paint kits for under $100 including the reducer online.(honestly check out ebay).. if you want base then clear look to spend a bit more. I got mine from thecoatingstore.com great support and service.... They even gave me additional paint at a discount when I screwed up.
Its a lot of work.... I recommend priming if it need it (at least prime all damaged spots with the siem (I think thats the brand I bought locally) spot primer or equivilent 1k or 2k primer.
This is kinda getting off topic and I dont want to hijack this thread anymore than it has been so...

 

I know I was asked for a how to- whether you want to do it this way or not is up to you, but I painted a car way back in 2002 and it still to this day has not chipped, peeled, etc, which is more than I can say for even work I've had at body shops.

Rattle cans are more forgiving than paint guns as you paint in thinner layers, while novices frequently get major runs with paint guns, although it is true they can usually be sanded down if your patient enough.

So with that being said, I'll be painting another car as soon as the weather improves, and I'll make a how-to out of it... including paint selection etc. At that time I certainly urge AugieDogie or anyone else who has input to share their input as well so any DIYer can make the right choice!

Thanks!

 

This looks great man! Wanna come paint my truck for me? How did you do the chrome at the bottom?

 

What size tires are those?

 

33s


Haha- not quite, but the chrome isnt painted- thats stainless steel rocker panels/ rock panels. I love the look of them, and thought about looking for some for my new truck (4th gen).

 

Great job!!