I started another thread on tuesday about dropping valve body i dropped it there was no strut up there so i take it it was in the proper place. I swapped sensor and solenoid adj. Bands put new filter and fresh atf4. It ran good and shifter smoother and sooner then when i first bought the truck six months ago. Well todays two days later and 200 bucks later it started ****ing up again and not shifting out of first.... **** this anybody got a little c4 and a pen for insurance psper work? All i got is a little irish cofee

 

When that happens it means the tranny is spitting out metel shavings and they keep plugging vb passages and or soleniod screen.... time for a rebuild...when my TCC failed it left these shavings everywhere..I replaced the soleniod and it actually bought me 10,000 miles the first time.. the good news is a basic rebuild and tcc should do the trick...I needed od gear and tailhousing because mine was cracked and the PO used like two tubes of rtv to try to half *** fix it...

 

When you had the VB out, could youi see the strut in place? Did you tighten the adjusting screw and see if it close the gap between the actuator and the servo and it would clamp the band?

 

yes it looked like it was there, i did tighten the adj screw, and it did close the gap. i wish i had and air compressor so i could have checked the bands that way. i put my truck on craigs list. i was looking into buying one from the dealership. my credit isnt the greatest, however its getting better. ( i really have no credit) however over the past year ive had more bills in my name. i was recently aproved for a capital one card. any ways if the dealer dont work out, i think im going to try and finance a tranny. I truly dont want to get rid of my truck. I love it soo much, it made me sad to put it on craigs list. Im still kinda thinking about trying my own rebuild. The dealer just seems like a nice way to go because itll help my credit ( iwant to buy a house in the next couple years) and i need and extended cab (because the two kids). i took it to a tranny shop. the guy said that either the bands are just worn, or there no friction in the clutches.
friday morning i was driving to work and it started acting up. when ever i turn it n it shifts fine for bout 5 to ten minutes then it doesnt want to shift. so i was on my way to work and it wouldnt shift i was doing 20 miles and hr at 3k rpm and got pissed so i mashed the gas peddle and it went to about 5500 rpm mid red line then changed gears. ive been pushing it to work. mash the gas get it to 4 rpm then have enough speed to get to the next light without slowing down traffic. i need to get to wotk, yet im afraid by doing this keep rpming it high to get it to move forward that in turn ill have a blown motor as well as a ****ed up tranny. so i have to do something fast.

 

You may want to remove the pan again, and make sure the Gov solenoid and Gov pressure switch connectors are snapped in ALL the way.

 

i have to drive to home depot, ineed a piece of plexi glass for my pacman frog. so i will check the integrity of my fluid again.... i think i may have an idea of part of the problem. however it depends on what condition the fluid is in.

 

I'm pretty sure you've got this down but also make sure it's not too low or even too full.

 

Checked my tranny fluid the other day is was low as can be. I checked for a leak, didnt see a leak but the pan was moist. So left truck at home today. Gunna drop the pan and takee anther look see. Maybe fluid had a small leak (no,leak was present in my parking spot at home or work) which caused it to start acting up again two days later.

 

Gunna wipe everything down dry and clean remove pan check fluid pan check see how bands look do as zman suggested and make sure my electronics are plugged all thw way. Refill and watch closely. Also gunna put drain in pan even if its rigged with a bolt and plumbing tape

 

It is not easy getting the fluid level right - or it wasn't for me the first time or two. But my problem was mis-reading the manual on capacity.....(pints do NOT equal quarts...) There is a chart in the manual that indicates how the reading can be off if trans temperature is not at "operating temp." I don't recall the temp recommended, but it was pretty warm. (at the office without manual in front of me).