Motor swap project started
not much else to show in pictures. What i did do today was pulled out the EGR systems and reinstalled with one from the junkyard. The vacuum lines were all messed up and mixed around on the EGR system that was on the truck and the diaghram was busted, so i thought it easier to just snag the whole system from the junkyard with everything attached so i didnt have to worry about figuring out how to hook it all up. I installed new dizzy cap rotor and routed all plug wires, installed the battery cables, put starter and tranny inspection cover on, and some other various small things.
I double checked all the connections, i could not find the cover to my pdc to check the relays or fuses. It sounds like the relay is what is clicking. I tried tapping starter with a hammer, then i tried smacking the crap out of it with a 24 oz hammer. still nothing. i have 2 more starters i can try, but i think i will print out some of the fsm and rule out wiring first. I made sure i had everything grounded: 1 on the back of each head, 1 on the acces bracket above power steering pump, 1 on transmission and block bolt, and one on the alternator. should there be more?
I double checked all the connections, i could not find the cover to my pdc to check the relays or fuses. It sounds like the relay is what is clicking. I tried tapping starter with a hammer, then i tried smacking the crap out of it with a 24 oz hammer. still nothing. i have 2 more starters i can try, but i think i will print out some of the fsm and rule out wiring first. I made sure i had everything grounded: 1 on the back of each head, 1 on the acces bracket above power steering pump, 1 on transmission and block bolt, and one on the alternator. should there be more?
Ok, two wires on starter. Yep. The fat one should have 12 volts all the time. It goes from starter, to PDC, thru a fat fuse to other side of PDC, then to the battery.
Little wire should have a minimum of 9 volts when the key is turned to the start position.
See which you are missing.
Little wire should have a minimum of 9 volts when the key is turned to the start position.
See which you are missing.
I am so f'd. As i was changing the starter out i noticed that the block was stamped 318. I could have sworn i checked that when i biught the motor and it said 360. My 360 pcm isnt going to work on this motor is it?
360 plate should have had a weight on it somewhere.....
You might be able to run a tap into the dipstick tube a bit, and then pull it out. Don't try using an easy out..... might get lucky, and simply a bolt the right size may work as well. So long as the threads bite into the tube a bit, should come out.
360 PCM will run the engine, a tad rich in open loop...... but, that'll be the only problem. I think you DO need to change the flexplate though.
You might be able to run a tap into the dipstick tube a bit, and then pull it out. Don't try using an easy out..... might get lucky, and simply a bolt the right size may work as well. So long as the threads bite into the tube a bit, should come out.
360 PCM will run the engine, a tad rich in open loop...... but, that'll be the only problem. I think you DO need to change the flexplate though.
So pulling the engine back out OR dropping tranny appears to be the only way to correct this, right?
If it runs rich, then changing the PCM would be necessary at some point (after getting it running) to keep from burning more gas than these things already burn....
Like I often say, "it's always something!"
If it runs rich, then changing the PCM would be necessary at some point (after getting it running) to keep from burning more gas than these things already burn....
Like I often say, "it's always something!"






